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Buying guide

Nissan Skyline GT-R R34 (1999 to 2002): buying guide, problems and NZ numbers

The Nissan Skyline GT-R R34 was built from 1999 to 2002 as a coupe, with a manual gearbox, all wheel drive and petrol power. Chassis code: BNR34. Redline has a curated guide to its 8 most reported weak points, from owner club and specialist sources.

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Key facts

Years
1999 to 2002
Chassis codes
BNR34
Body types
Coupe
Gearboxes
Manual
Drive
AWD (all wheel drive)
Fuel
Petrol

On NZ roads

Counting every one on the NZ register. The first look can take up to 15 seconds.

Known weak points

Curated by Redline from owner club and specialist sources Commonly reported by owners and specialists for the Nissan Skyline GT-R R34 (1999 to 2002). Not every car has these; check this one.

  1. Rust in strut tops, arches and boot lid

    Rust mainly affects the strut tops, rear arches and floor pan. Strut tops are awkward to repair, and the steel boot lid rusts round the brake light where water sits.

    Where to look
    The front and rear strut tops under the bonnet and in the boot, the rear arches, sills, floor pan, chassis rails and the boot lid recess round the high level brake light
    How to test
    Look closely at each strut top for bubbling or filler and press the arch lips. Overspray on rubber trim or the diffusers points to poor repair work.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost strut tower repairs are structural

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), fastcar.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  2. RB26 oil pressure, bearings and compression

    Big end bearing failure and low oil pressure are reported. A cold compression test is described as practically essential.

    Where to look
    The oil pressure gauge, and the valvetrain under the red rocker covers
    How to test
    With the car warm, oil pressure should stay above 4 bar above 4000 rpm. Listen for a knock that gets worse with revs. Ask for a cold compression test, and look under the oil cap for clean oil.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost engine rebuild

    Sources: fastcar.co.uk (opens in a new tab), carmagazine.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  3. Coil packs and vacuum lines

    Coil packs are called the weakest point under the bonnet, and the vacuum lines split, including the one at the back of the plenum.

    Where to look
    The coil packs on top of the engine, and the vacuum hoses at the back of the plenum
    How to test
    Ask when the coil packs were replaced. A misfire under boost points to coils. Look for cracked or split hoses.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost a set of coils is costly, hoses are cheap

    Sources: fastcar.co.uk (opens in a new tab), pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

  4. Getrag 6 speed gearbox and clutch

    Popping out of 1st gear is not unknown, and synchro failure on hard driven cars is reported. An aftermarket clutch may clank at idle.

    Where to look
    The gear lever and the clutch pedal
    How to test
    Change through every gear and listen for crunching. Accelerate in 1st and check it stays in gear. Some whine is normal.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost gearbox rebuild

    Sources: fastcar.co.uk (opens in a new tab), carmagazine.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  5. ATTESA E-TS all wheel drive

    The system should send drive to the front when the rear slips. The torque split on the multi function display shows whether it works.

    Where to look
    The torque split screen on the multi function display in the centre of the dash
    How to test
    On a hard launch, or with the seller demonstrating one, watch the torque split screen move towards 50/50 front to rear.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost ATTESA parts and diagnosis

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), fastcar.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  6. Multi function display and sensors

    The multi function display screens and their sensors can fail and are expensive to replace.

    Where to look
    The screen in the centre of the dash
    How to test
    Cycle through every screen and check each reading moves.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost expensive Nissan parts

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), carmagazine.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  7. V-Spec, N1 and Nur identity

    Special versions carry big premiums. V-Spec cars have the active rear LSD and ATTESA E-TS Pro; the V-Spec II has a carbon bonnet with a NACA duct; the Nur has a 300 km/h speedo and gold rocker covers.

    Where to look
    The build plate, bonnet, speedo and rocker covers, and the export certificate
    How to test
    Check each feature for the version claimed and confirm the chassis number with a specialist register before agreeing a price.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost the price gap between versions

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

  8. Front wheel bearings and CV boots

    Front wheel bearings fail, and the front CV boots need regular checks.

    Where to look
    The front hubs and the CV boots behind the front wheels
    How to test
    Listen for a high pitched hum that changes with speed. Look for split boots and flung grease.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost bearing and boot parts

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), fastcar.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

General guidance from owner and specialist sources. Check the specific car with an independent inspection. Researched 1 November 2026.

What the cost bands mean
  • Low: a small job. Typically a few hundred dollars or less at an NZ workshop, often a DIY fix.
  • Medium: a proper workshop job. Typically several hundred to a couple of thousand dollars.
  • High: a major job. Typically several thousand dollars or more, enough to change what the car is worth.

Service items

Questions to ask the seller

  • When were the cambelt and water pump last done, and at what km?
  • When were the coil packs last replaced?
  • What modifications and boost does it run, and who tuned it?
  • What is the full chassis number, so I can confirm the version?
  • Has a compression test been done recently, and can I see the result?

New Zealand notes

  • Every R34 GT-R in NZ is a Japanese import. Compare the export certificate odometer with the dash and with wear on the wheel, pedals and seat bolsters.
  • Modified cars need LVVTA certification for many changes; ask to see the plate.

An R34 GT-R suits a collector or keen driver with a specialist on hand and the budget for one.

US recalls

Looking up US recall data.

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