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Buying guide

Nissan Skyline GT-R R32 (1989 to 1994): buying guide, problems and NZ numbers

The Nissan Skyline GT-R R32 was built from 1989 to 1994 as a coupe, with a manual gearbox, all wheel drive and petrol power. Chassis code: BNR32. Redline has a curated guide to its 8 most reported weak points, from owner club and specialist sources.

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Key facts

Years
1989 to 1994
Chassis codes
BNR32
Body types
Coupe
Gearboxes
Manual
Drive
AWD (all wheel drive)
Fuel
Petrol

On NZ roads

Counting every one on the NZ register. The first look can take up to 15 seconds.

Known weak points

Curated by Redline from owner club and specialist sources Commonly reported by owners and specialists for the Nissan Skyline GT-R R32 (1989 to 1994). Not every car has these; check this one.

  1. Rust in arches, sills, strut tops and rear quarters

    Rust is reported in the arches, sills, front strut tops, main rails, bulkhead, the rear wings behind the spats and round the rear screen. Shrinking rear glass seals let water pool at the base of the C pillar.

    Where to look
    The front strut tops under the bonnet, the sills, the rear quarters ahead of and behind each rear wheel, the top of the rear wheel wells, the base of each C pillar, and the boot floor under the spare wheel
    How to test
    Crawl underneath with a torch and be wary of heavy fresh underseal. Look for bubbling paint on the rear quarters and lift the boot floor and carpets to check for water.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost structural rust repair and glass seals

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), hagerty.com (opens in a new tab)

  2. Jacking damage to sills and rails

    Cars are often jacked on the pinch welds under the sills. The bent seams then rust, and the chassis rails get damaged too.

    Where to look
    The pinch weld seams under each sill and the chassis rails behind them
    How to test
    Look along each sill seam for crushed or folded metal and rust starting in the folds.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost straightening and rust repair

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), hagerty.com (opens in a new tab)

  3. RB26 oil pump drive and oil pressure

    Failure of the oil pump drive is a known cause of terminal engine damage, and Nissan revised it from February 1993. A leaking oil pump backing plate is also common, and the oil pressure sender is often faulty.

    Where to look
    The build date on the plate, the oil pump at the front of the crank, and the oil pressure gauge
    How to test
    With the engine warm, look for about 2 bar at idle and about 4 bar higher up the rev range. Look for oil at the front of the engine below the crank pulley, and ask whether an upgraded pump or collar has been fitted.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost engine rebuild if the drive fails

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), hagerty.com (opens in a new tab)

  4. Ceramic turbine wheels

    The standard turbos have brittle ceramic turbine wheels. Removing the boost restrictor to run about 1 bar, or lots of time on the rev limiter, can break them.

    Where to look
    The two turbos under the plenum, the boost setting and any boost controller
    How to test
    Ask what boost it runs and whether the turbos are original. Listen for turbo noise and watch for smoke, and feel for a car that suddenly feels non turbo.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost two turbos and possible engine damage

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), hagerty.com (opens in a new tab)

  5. 5 speed gearbox and clutch

    A broken 3rd gear is commonly reported on the 5 speed, and synchros and a slipping clutch also need checking.

    Where to look
    The gear lever and clutch pedal
    How to test
    Change through every gear up and down when warm, with extra care on 3rd. Accelerate in a high gear and watch for revs rising without speed.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost gearbox rebuild

    Sources: hagerty.com (opens in a new tab), pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

  6. ATTESA, ABS and HICAS warning lights

    The ABS, HICAS and 4WD warning lights should come on at start up and then go out. If the front is not taking drive the rear wheels spin, and a failed 30 amp fuse near the right headlight is one known cause.

    Where to look
    The warning lights on the dash, and the fuse box near the right headlight
    How to test
    Watch every light at start up and check none stays on. Ask whether the ATTESA has been checked by a specialist.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost ATTESA diagnosis and parts

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), hagerty.com (opens in a new tab)

  7. Super HICAS rear steer

    Super HICAS often fails or has been locked out, and its track rods wear. An aftermarket steering wheel can stop HICAS working.

    Where to look
    The HICAS rack beside the rear differential, its hydraulic lines, and the steering wheel
    How to test
    Look for fluid on the rear rack and lines, and check for slack in the steering. Ask whether a HICAS delete kit is fitted.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost rack parts or a delete kit

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), hagerty.com (opens in a new tab)

  8. Swapped speedo clusters and mileage

    The factory speedo reads to 180 km/h, but clusters reading 260, 300 or 320 km/h are often swapped in with their own odometers, so mileage is very hard to prove without full records.

    Where to look
    The speedo face in the instrument cluster, and the service and export records
    How to test
    Check the speedo scale and compare wear on the pedals, gear knob, steering wheel and seat bolsters with the claimed km.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost unknown mileage changes what the car is worth

    Sources: hagerty.com (opens in a new tab)

General guidance from owner and specialist sources. Check the specific car with an independent inspection. Researched 3 November 2026.

What the cost bands mean
  • Low: a small job. Typically a few hundred dollars or less at an NZ workshop, often a DIY fix.
  • Medium: a proper workshop job. Typically several hundred to a couple of thousand dollars.
  • High: a major job. Typically several thousand dollars or more, enough to change what the car is worth.

Service items

Questions to ask the seller

  • Is the car built after February 1993, or has the oil pump drive been upgraded?
  • When were the cambelt and water pump last done, and at what km?
  • Are the turbos original, and what boost does it run?
  • Is the speedo cluster original, and what records support the km?
  • Does the Super HICAS work, or has it been removed?
  • Has any rust repair or welding been done, and are there photos?

New Zealand notes

  • Every R32 GT-R in NZ is a Japanese import. Compare the export certificate odometer with the dash, which matters more given the cluster swaps.
  • Modified cars need LVVTA certification for many changes; ask to see the plate.

An R32 GT-R suits a collector or keen driver who will pay for a specialist inspection of the rust and oil pump before buying.

US recalls

Looking up US recall data.

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