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Buying guide

Nissan Skyline GT-R R33 (1995 to 1998): buying guide, problems and NZ numbers

The Nissan Skyline GT-R R33 was built from 1995 to 1998 as a coupe or sedan, with a manual gearbox, all wheel drive and petrol power. Chassis code: BCNR33. Redline has a curated guide to its 7 most reported weak points, from owner club and specialist sources.

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Key facts

Years
1995 to 1998
Chassis codes
BCNR33
Body types
Coupe, Sedan
Gearboxes
Manual
Drive
AWD (all wheel drive)
Fuel
Petrol

On NZ roads

Counting every one on the NZ register. The first look can take up to 15 seconds.

Known weak points

Curated by Redline from owner club and specialist sources Commonly reported by owners and specialists for the Nissan Skyline GT-R R33 (1995 to 1998). Not every car has these; check this one.

  1. Strut turrets and body rust

    Corrosion is called the big killer. The suspension turrets are double or triple skinned and rust from the inside.

    Where to look
    The front and rear suspension turrets, the underbody, the boot lid, the rear wheel arches and the inner wings
    How to test
    Look hard at each turret for bubbling or filler. Clean looking cars can hide deeper rust, so get a specialist inspection on a hoist.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost structural rust repair

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), fastcar.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  2. RB26 oil control

    High boost raises crankcase pressure, giving oil consumption, smoke on boost and oil in the head that can starve the sump and spin bearings.

    Where to look
    The breather pipe between the cam covers, the exhaust and the oil level
    How to test
    After a warm up, pull the breather pipe between the cam covers and look for heavy oil mist. Listen for knocking on a cold start and watch for smoke on boost.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost engine rebuild

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), fastcar.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  3. Ceramic turbine wheels

    The ceramic turbine wheels can break off their shafts if overspun or after detonation. About 1 bar of boost is suggested as a safe limit.

    Where to look
    The two turbos under the plenum, and the boost setting
    How to test
    Ask what boost it runs. Listen for noisy turbos after shutdown and watch for smoke.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost two turbos and possible engine damage

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), fastcar.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  4. 5 speed gearbox synchros

    Grinding on up or down changes, mainly 1 to 2 and 4 to 5, points to worn synchros.

    Where to look
    The gear lever
    How to test
    Change quickly through 1 to 2 and 4 to 5, up and down. A clutch that bites at the very top of the pedal may be worn.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost gearbox rebuild

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), fastcar.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  5. Steering rack and HICAS

    Steering racks leak, and the HICAS rear wheel steering is known for playing up.

    Where to look
    The steering rack boots behind the front subframe, and the HICAS unit at the rear
    How to test
    Look for fluid on the rack and check for smooth steering from lock to lock. Ask whether HICAS has been removed with a lock kit.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost rack reseal or replacement

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), fastcar.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  6. Brittle wiring and electrics

    Underbonnet wiring becomes brittle with age and heat, and the airflow meter solder joints dry out.

    Where to look
    The engine bay harness and the airflow meters
    How to test
    Look for cracked insulation. Rough idle or hunting can come from vacuum leaks, coil packs or the airflow meters.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost harnesses and sensors

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), fastcar.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  7. ATTESA all wheel drive

    The front wheels should take drive when the rears slip. Non standard wheels and tyres can set an ATTESA fault code.

    Where to look
    The 4WD warning light on the dash
    How to test
    On a wet road, apply firm throttle and feel the front take drive. Listen for rear diff noise.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost ATTESA parts and diagnosis

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), fastcar.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

General guidance from owner and specialist sources. Check the specific car with an independent inspection. Researched 1 November 2026.

What the cost bands mean
  • Low: a small job. Typically a few hundred dollars or less at an NZ workshop, often a DIY fix.
  • Medium: a proper workshop job. Typically several hundred to a couple of thousand dollars.
  • High: a major job. Typically several thousand dollars or more, enough to change what the car is worth.

Service items

Questions to ask the seller

  • What boost does it run, and are the turbos standard ceramic units?
  • When was the cambelt last done?
  • Has the HICAS been removed or locked?
  • Has the car had rust repairs to the strut turrets?
  • Is it a V-Spec, and does the chassis number confirm it?

New Zealand notes

  • R33 GT-Rs in NZ are Japanese imports. Compare the export certificate odometer with the dash.
  • Modified cars need LVVTA certification for many changes; ask to see the plate.

An R33 GT-R suits a buyer who wants the best value RB26 GT-R and will pay for a hoist inspection of the turrets.

US recalls

Looking up US recall data.

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