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Buying guide

Porsche 911 Targa 997 (2004 to 2012): buying guide, problems and NZ numbers

The Porsche 911 Targa 997 was built from 2004 to 2012 as a targa, with a manual, automatic or dual clutch gearbox, rear wheel drive or all wheel drive and petrol power. Chassis code: 997. Redline has a curated guide to its 8 most reported weak points, from owner club and specialist sources.

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Key facts

Years
2004 to 2012
Chassis codes
997
Body types
Targa
Gearboxes
Manual, Automatic, Dual clutch
Drive
RWD (rear wheel drive), AWD (all wheel drive)
Fuel
Petrol

On NZ roads

Counting every one on the NZ register. The first look can take up to 15 seconds.

Known weak points

Curated by Redline from owner club and specialist sources Commonly reported by owners and specialists for the Porsche 911 997 Carrera (2004 to 2012). Not every car has these; check this one.

  1. Bore scoring (997.1)

    Bore scoring affects a small share of 997.1 engines, more so the 3.8 Carrera S.

    Where to look
    The left hand tailpipe compared with the right, and the engine at idle
    How to test
    Look for soot on the left pipe and a clean right pipe, and listen for a rhythmic ticking at idle. Ask for a borescope inspection.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost rebuilt engine

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), design911.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  2. IMS bearing (997.1)

    IMS failure is rare and much less likely than on the 996, but it can fail without warning. The 997.2 direct injection engine has no IMS.

    Where to look
    Invoices for any IMS work or engine rebuild
    How to test
    Ask for a documented fix. A refurbished engine from a known specialist is a plus.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost engine rebuild if it fails

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), design911.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  3. Over revving record

    Specialists check for over revving with a diagnostic cable.

    Where to look
    The engine ECU over rev log
    How to test
    Have a specialist plug in a PIWIS or Durametric tool and read the over rev ranges.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost possible valvetrain damage

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

  4. Coil packs

    Coil packs last around 50,000 miles and their heat shields can work loose and rattle.

    Where to look
    The coil packs on top of each cylinder bank
    How to test
    Feel for a misfire under load and listen for a rattle from the engine.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Low cost coils are cheap each

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

  5. Radiators blocked with leaves

    Leaves collect in the front radiators.

    Where to look
    The front radiators behind the bumper grilles
    How to test
    Look through the grilles with a torch for leaves and debris.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Low cost bumper off to clean

    Sources: design911.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  6. PDK servicing (997.2)

    PDK needs fluid changes, and jerky shifting is a reason to walk away.

    Where to look
    The PDK service records and the drive
    How to test
    Drive in traffic and feel for jerky shifts. Ask when the PDK fluid was changed.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost PDK repair

    Sources: design911.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  7. Suspension knocks and exhaust studs

    Knocking over bumps can be tired control arms or PASM dampers, and exhaust studs rust and seize.

    Where to look
    The front and rear control arms and dampers, and the exhaust manifold studs
    How to test
    Drive over a bumpy road and listen for knocks. Look at the exhaust flanges for rot.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost arms and dampers

    Sources: design911.co.uk (opens in a new tab), pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

  8. Clutch

    A worn clutch gets heavy. They last around 50,000 miles in normal use.

    Where to look
    The clutch pedal
    How to test
    Feel for a heavy pedal and for slip when accelerating hard in a high gear.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost clutch replacement

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), design911.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

General guidance from owner and specialist sources. Check the specific car with an independent inspection. Researched 1 November 2026.

What the cost bands mean
  • Low: a small job. Typically a few hundred dollars or less at an NZ workshop, often a DIY fix.
  • Medium: a proper workshop job. Typically several hundred to a couple of thousand dollars.
  • High: a major job. Typically several thousand dollars or more, enough to change what the car is worth.

Service items

Questions to ask the seller

  • Is it a 997.1 or a 997.2?
  • Has a borescope inspection been done on this engine?
  • Can a specialist read the over rev log?
  • Has the engine been rebuilt or had IMS work, and by whom?
  • When was the clutch or PDK fluid last done?

New Zealand notes

  • NZ has NZ new, Australian and Japanese import 997s. Ask for the Porsche service history, which a Porsche Centre can confirm.

A 997 suits a buyer who wants a usable modern 911; the 997.2 removes the IMS question.

US recalls

Looking up US recall data.

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