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Buying guide

Porsche 911 Targa 996 (1997 to 2005): buying guide, problems and NZ numbers

The Porsche 911 Targa 996 was built from 1997 to 2005 as a targa, with a manual or automatic gearbox, rear wheel drive or all wheel drive and petrol power. Chassis code: 996. Redline has a curated guide to its 8 most reported weak points, from owner club and specialist sources.

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Key facts

Years
1997 to 2005
Chassis codes
996
Body types
Targa
Gearboxes
Manual, Automatic
Drive
RWD (rear wheel drive), AWD (all wheel drive)
Fuel
Petrol

On NZ roads

Counting every one on the NZ register. The first look can take up to 15 seconds.

Known weak points

Curated by Redline from owner club and specialist sources Commonly reported by owners and specialists for the Porsche 911 996 Carrera (1997 to 2005). Not every car has these; check this one.

  1. IMS bearing

    The intermediate shaft bearing on Carrera and Carrera 4 engines can lose its grease and break up, jamming the shaft and letting the cam chain destroy the engine. Turbo and GT3 models use a different engine.

    Where to look
    Invoices for an uprated IMS bearing, and the oil filter at each service
    How to test
    Ask for proof of an IMS upgrade by a known specialist and for regular oil changes. Ask whether the oil filter has been cut open and checked for metal.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost engine rebuild if it fails

    Sources: fastcar.co.uk (opens in a new tab), parkers.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  2. Bore scoring

    Bore scoring is reported, especially in cylinder 6. Signs are smoke, a sooty tailpipe and higher oil use.

    Where to look
    The left side tailpipe, the dipstick, and the cylinders with a borescope
    How to test
    Look for smoke after the car has stood, a sooty left tailpipe, very black oil and a ticking noise. A borescope inspection of the cylinders is the only fairly reliable test.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost engine rebuild

    Sources: parkers.co.uk (opens in a new tab), fastcar.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  3. Rear main seal leaks

    Rear main seal leaks are common. The seal is cheap but the labour is not.

    Where to look
    The join between engine and gearbox, hidden behind the underbody panels
    How to test
    Look for oil at the back of the engine and drips under the car. Check the oil level history.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost gearbox off to replace

    Sources: fastcar.co.uk (opens in a new tab), parkers.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  4. Air oil separator

    A failing air oil separator draws oil into the intake, giving exhaust smoke and rough running.

    Where to look
    The exhaust on start up and the idle quality
    How to test
    Watch for a cloud of smoke on start up and feel for rough idle.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost part and labour

    Sources: fastcar.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  5. Over revving record

    Over revs recorded by the engine management, often from missed downshifts, point to possible damage.

    Where to look
    The engine ECU over rev log
    How to test
    Have a specialist plug in a diagnostic tool and read the over rev ranges and fault codes.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost possible valvetrain damage

    Sources: fastcar.co.uk (opens in a new tab), parkers.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  6. Cooling, radiators and air conditioning condensers

    Ageing plastics in the cooling system can cause overheating, and the front air conditioning condensers are a common failure.

    Where to look
    The front radiators and condensers behind the front bumper intakes, and the coolant tank
    How to test
    Check the front fans run at idle with the air conditioning on and that the air conditioning blows cold.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost radiators and condensers

    Sources: parkers.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  7. Rust in arches and brake pipes

    Rust is reported in the wheel arches and underside where galvanising has worn, and brake pipes corrode; one pipe may need the engine out to replace.

    Where to look
    The wheel arches and the brake lines under the car
    How to test
    Check the arches carefully and look along the brake pipes for corrosion.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost pipe work can be labour heavy

    Sources: parkers.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  8. Tiptronic gearbox

    The Tiptronic rarely has issues, but its fluid is often never changed and a failure usually means replacement.

    Where to look
    The Tiptronic fluid records and the selector
    How to test
    Ask when the fluid was last changed. Check for smooth shifts with no clunks or flashing indicator.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost replacement gearbox

    Sources: fastcar.co.uk (opens in a new tab), parkers.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

General guidance from owner and specialist sources. Check the specific car with an independent inspection. Researched 1 November 2026.

What the cost bands mean
  • Low: a small job. Typically a few hundred dollars or less at an NZ workshop, often a DIY fix.
  • Medium: a proper workshop job. Typically several hundred to a couple of thousand dollars.
  • High: a major job. Typically several thousand dollars or more, enough to change what the car is worth.

Service items

Questions to ask the seller

  • Has the IMS bearing been upgraded, by whom, and is there an invoice?
  • Has a borescope inspection been done?
  • Can a specialist read the over rev log before I buy?
  • Has the rear main seal been replaced?
  • Is it the 3.4 or the 3.6, and manual or Tiptronic?

New Zealand notes

  • NZ has NZ new, Australian and Japanese import 996s. Ask for the Porsche service history, which a Porsche Centre can confirm.

A 996 Carrera suits a buyer who wants the cheapest way into a water cooled 911 and will pay for an IMS upgrade or proof of one.

US recalls

Looking up US recall data.

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