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Buying guide

Mazda MX-5 NC (2005 to 2015): buying guide, problems and NZ numbers

The Mazda MX-5 NC was built from 2005 to 2015 as a convertible, with a manual or automatic gearbox, rear wheel drive and petrol power. Chassis code: NCEC. Redline has a curated guide to its 7 most reported weak points, from owner club and specialist sources.

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Key facts

Years
2005 to 2015
Chassis codes
NCEC
Body types
Convertible
Gearboxes
Manual, Automatic
Drive
RWD (rear wheel drive)
Fuel
Petrol

On NZ roads

Counting every one on the NZ register. The first look can take up to 15 seconds.

Known weak points

Curated by Redline from owner club and specialist sources Commonly reported by owners and specialists for the Mazda MX-5 NC (2005 to 2015). Not every car has these; check this one.

  1. Retractable hardtop mechanism (RHT)

    The power folding roof should be smooth, quiet and take no more than 12 seconds. Early cars had fragile plastic gears in the mechanism, and repairs are complex and expensive.

    Where to look
    The roof mechanism behind the seats, and its operation
    How to test
    Open and close the roof twice and time it. Listen for grinding, clicks or slow movement and ask whether the gears have been upgraded.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost complex mechanism and parts

    Sources: classicsworld.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  2. Blocked roof drains and wet electrics

    Blocked roof drain valves let water in, which causes creeping rust and can damage electrics in the seats and under the carpets.

    Where to look
    The parcel shelf behind the seats, the carpet under the seats and the drain valves
    How to test
    Feel for damp behind and under the seats and smell for mould.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost drain valves, or electrics if water has got in

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), classicsworld.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  3. Sills, arches and subframe mounts

    Rust in the sills, arches and subframe mounts is reported on older and high km cars, and stone chips on the low bonnet can rust.

    Where to look
    The sills, rear arches and the subframe mounts underneath, and the bonnet leading edge
    How to test
    Look underneath with a torch at the subframe mounts and check the sills and arches with a magnet.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost welding on older cars

    Sources: classicsworld.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  4. Scuttle leaks into the footwells

    If the plastic panel under the wipers is loose, or its foam screw gaskets perish, water leaks into the footwells.

    Where to look
    The plastic scuttle panel under the wipers, and the front footwell carpets
    How to test
    Check the panel is firmly fixed and feel the front carpets for damp.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Low cost cheap gaskets or sealant

    Sources: classicsworld.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  5. Coil wiring and timing chain tensioner

    Early cars have thin coil wiring that frays and causes misfires, and weak timing chain tensioners that are often upgraded by about 70,000 miles.

    Where to look
    The coil pack wiring on top of the engine, and tensioner invoices
    How to test
    Feel for misfires at idle and under load. Listen for chain rattle on a cold start and ask for proof the tensioner was replaced.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost coils, plugs and wiring, or a tensioner

    Sources: classicsworld.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  6. Seized brake calipers

    Front calipers are prone to seizing, especially on cars parked with the handbrake on.

    Where to look
    The front calipers
    How to test
    Make a few firm stops and check the car stops straight. Look for scored discs and uneven pad wear.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Low cost calipers are cheap

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), classicsworld.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  7. Dampers and drop links

    Rear dampers wear at about 30,000 miles, and front anti roll bar drop links are a common rattle.

    Where to look
    The rear dampers and the front anti roll bar drop links
    How to test
    Listen for rattles over small bumps and feel for a soft, wallowy ride.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Low cost dampers and links

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), classicsworld.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

General guidance from owner and specialist sources. Check the specific car with an independent inspection. Researched 1 November 2026.

What the cost bands mean
  • Low: a small job. Typically a few hundred dollars or less at an NZ workshop, often a DIY fix.
  • Medium: a proper workshop job. Typically several hundred to a couple of thousand dollars.
  • High: a major job. Typically several thousand dollars or more, enough to change what the car is worth.

Service items

Questions to ask the seller

  • Is it the soft top or the retractable hardtop, and have the roof gears been upgraded?
  • Has the timing chain tensioner been replaced?
  • Has the car had rust repairs on the sills or subframe mounts?
  • Have the carpets ever been wet?
  • Do both keys work?

New Zealand notes

  • NZ has NZ new MX-5s and Japanese import Roadsters. Compare the export certificate odometer with the dash on imports.

An NC suits a driver who wants a more refined, roomier MX-5 for regular use.

US recalls

Looking up US recall data.

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