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Buying guide

Mazda MX-5 NB (1998 to 2005): buying guide, problems and NZ numbers

The Mazda MX-5 NB was built from 1998 to 2005 as a convertible or coupe, with a manual or automatic gearbox, rear wheel drive and petrol power. Chassis codes: NB6C and NB8C. Redline has a curated guide to its 7 most reported weak points, from owner club and specialist sources.

Key facts

Years
1998 to 2005
Chassis codes
NB6C, NB8C
Body types
Convertible, Coupe
Gearboxes
Manual, Automatic
Drive
RWD (rear wheel drive)
Fuel
Petrol

On NZ roads

1,747registered, built 1998 to 2005
18%NZ new (313)
82%imported used (1,434)
Imported from
Japan 97%, United Kingdom 2%, Australia 1%
Gearboxes
6-Gear Manual 58%, 5-Gear Manual 36%, 5-Gear Auto 5%
Top regions for the Mazda MX-5
Auckland (519), Christchurch City (221), Hamilton City (68)

Source: NZTA Waka Kotahi Motor Vehicle Register open data (opens in a new tab), CC BY 4.0. Vehicles on the register now, counted by build year.

Known weak points

Curated by Redline from owner club and specialist sources Commonly reported by owners and specialists for the Mazda MX-5 NB (1998 to 2005). Not every car has these; check this one.

  1. Front chassis rails

    The front chassis legs are double skinned and can rot from the inside. Specialists describe rot here as often terminal.

    Where to look
    Under the front of the car with the undertray off: the two chassis legs running back from the front crossmember, and where they meet the floor behind the front wheels
    How to test
    Touch and press the chassis legs with a torch in hand. If metal flakes off or there is fresh underseal or patching, walk away or get a hoist inspection first.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost structural welding; can write the car off

    Sources: insurance.goodwood.com (opens in a new tab), sps-motorsportshop.com (opens in a new tab)

  2. Rear sills and sill to arch joins

    Rust in the rear sills and where they join the rear arches is widely reported, and many cars already have patch repairs.

    Where to look
    The rear end of each sill and the join with the rear wheel arch, inside and out
    How to test
    Use a magnet and probe gently to judge any repair. A patch welded over rusty metal keeps rusting underneath.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost new sill sections and paint

    Sources: insurance.goodwood.com (opens in a new tab), sps-motorsportshop.com (opens in a new tab)

  3. Rear wheel arches

    Rear arches rust from the inside out, so visible bubbling is usually only part of it. Blocked drains make it worse.

    Where to look
    Inside the lip of each rear wheel arch
    How to test
    Run a finger inside the arch lip and look with a torch for flaking metal or filler.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost panel repair and paint

    Sources: insurance.goodwood.com (opens in a new tab), sps-motorsportshop.com (opens in a new tab)

  4. Hood drains and roof leaks

    Leaking roofs and blocked drain holes are commonly reported. The fabric also tends to tear at the fold above the side windows.

    Where to look
    The drain holes behind the seats, the carpets under the seats, and the hood fabric above each side window
    How to test
    Lift the carpet and feel for damp. Raise and lower the hood by hand during the viewing and check it closes tight. The front latches should not open without pressing the safety button.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost a new hood, or floor repairs if water has sat for years

    Sources: insurance.goodwood.com (opens in a new tab), sps-motorsportshop.com (opens in a new tab)

  5. Rear main seal and sump gasket

    Oil leaks at the gearbox bellhousing are reported, and in most cases come from the rear crankshaft seal or the sump gasket.

    Where to look
    The join between the engine and gearbox, and the sump edge, from underneath
    How to test
    Look for wet oil and caked dirt where the engine meets the gearbox and around the sump.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost the gearbox has to come off for the rear main seal

    Sources: sps-motorsportshop.com (opens in a new tab)

  6. Radiator and cooling system

    Cooling system neglect and radiator wear are commonly reported. A radiator whose plastic has faded from black to light grey is near the end.

    Where to look
    The plastic end tanks of the radiator and the coolant expansion tank
    How to test
    With the engine cold, look at the radiator plastic colour and for crust at the seams. Check under the oil filler cap for mayonnaise.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Low cost aftermarket radiators are cheap

    Sources: insurance.goodwood.com (opens in a new tab), sps-motorsportshop.com (opens in a new tab)

  7. Suspension bushes and rear calipers

    Tired bushes, worn dampers and seized brake calipers are listed as common problems.

    Where to look
    The wishbone bushes at each corner and the rear calipers
    How to test
    Look for cracked bushes. On the test drive listen for knocks and check the car brakes in a straight line.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost bushes are fiddly to replace and need an alignment after

    Sources: insurance.goodwood.com (opens in a new tab), sps-motorsportshop.com (opens in a new tab)

General guidance from owner and specialist sources. Check the specific car with an independent inspection. Researched 1 November 2026.

What the cost bands mean
  • Low: a small job. Typically a few hundred dollars or less at an NZ workshop, often a DIY fix.
  • Medium: a proper workshop job. Typically several hundred to a couple of thousand dollars.
  • High: a major job. Typically several thousand dollars or more, enough to change what the car is worth.

Service items

Questions to ask the seller

  • Has the car been on a hoist recently, and has anyone looked at the front chassis legs?
  • Has any rust repair been done on the sills or arches, and are there photos from before the underseal?
  • When were the cambelt and water pump last done, and at what km?
  • Is it a 5 speed or 6 speed, and does it have the LSD?
  • Has the hood been replaced, and has the carpet ever been wet?

New Zealand notes

  • Many NZ cars are Japanese import Roadsters. Compare the odometer on the export certificate with the dash.
  • The NB hood is a manual soft top with a glass rear window on most cars. There is no hood motor to check.

An NB suits a driver who wants a light, simple roadster and is ready to check the structure properly before buying.

US recalls

Looking up US recall data.

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