REDLINE ALLEYHonda Civic Type R FD2 (2007 to 2010): buying guide, problems and NZ numbers
The Honda Civic Type R FD2 was built from 2007 to 2010 as a sedan, with a manual gearbox, front wheel drive and petrol power. Chassis code: FD2. Redline has a curated guide to its 7 most reported weak points, from owner club and specialist sources.
Key facts
- Years
- 2007 to 2010
- Chassis codes
- FD2
- Body types
- Sedan
- Gearboxes
- Manual
- Drive
- FWD (front wheel drive)
- Fuel
- Petrol
On NZ roads
Counting every one on the NZ register. The first look can take up to 15 seconds.
Known weak points
Curated by Redline from owner club and specialist sources Commonly reported by owners and specialists for the Honda Civic Type R FD2 (2007 to 2011). Not every car has these; check this one.
Popping out of 3rd gear
Popping out of 3rd is usually a worn synchro, especially on early cars.
- Where to look
- The gear lever
- How to test
- Change through every gear at low and high revs and accelerate hard in 3rd to check it stays engaged.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- High cost gearbox rebuild
Engine and gearbox mounts
Failed mounts show as banging on gear changes, acceleration or braking.
- Where to look
- The engine and gearbox mounts
- How to test
- Feel for thumps when changing gear quickly and when getting on and off the throttle.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Medium cost mounts and labour
VTEC and valve clearances
Ticking when cold comes from the tappets, which are adjusted at the major service. VTEC that does not engage can come from oil pressure or coolant temperature problems.
- Where to look
- The top of the engine and the service records
- How to test
- Listen on a cold start and test VTEC once warm. Ask whether the valve clearances have been checked.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Medium cost valve adjustment or diagnosis
Oil level and contamination
If the low oil light has been on, engine damage has probably already happened. Coolant or fuel smells in the oil point to a head gasket or rings.
- Where to look
- The dipstick and oil filler cap
- How to test
- Check the level and smell the oil, and look for metal particles.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- High cost engine damage
Clutch
Watch for an engagement point too high or low, slip, drag and judder. A squeaky clutch is common and a recall did not fully fix it.
- Where to look
- The clutch pedal
- How to test
- Check where it bites, accelerate in a high gear for slip, and with the pedal down and the engine revved, check the car does not creep.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Medium cost clutch replacement
Rust
Rust can show in the arches, hinges, top of the windscreen, underbody and sills.
- Where to look
- The wheel arches, door hinges, top of the windscreen, sills and underbody
- How to test
- Use a magnet or paint gauge on the panels and look underneath with a torch.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Medium cost rust repair and paint
Auction grade and chassis number
The FD2 is a Japanese market car, so the auction sheet and chassis number tell its history. Grade R or RA cars have accident history.
- Where to look
- The chassis number on the frame and the auction check sheet
- How to test
- Ask for the auction sheet, check the grade and confirm the chassis number matches the frame.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- High cost accident history changes the value
General guidance from owner and specialist sources. Check the specific car with an independent inspection. Researched 3 November 2026.
What the cost bands mean
- Low: a small job. Typically a few hundred dollars or less at an NZ workshop, often a DIY fix.
- Medium: a proper workshop job. Typically several hundred to a couple of thousand dollars.
- High: a major job. Typically several thousand dollars or more, enough to change what the car is worth.
Service items
- Engine oil and filter: every 20,000 km or 12 months; some owners change at 14,000 km. Protects the K20A. (garagedreams.net (opens in a new tab))
- Valve clearances: check every 25,000 miles (about 40,000 km). Tight valves cause ticking and lost power. (garagedreams.net (opens in a new tab))
- Major service: at 120,000 km (75,000 miles) or 6 years: filters, plugs, gearbox oil, brake fluid, valve clearances and chain tensioner check. The timing chain should not need replacing, but check the tensioner. (garagedreams.net (opens in a new tab))
Questions to ask the seller
- Do you have the Japanese auction sheet, and what grade was it?
- Does it pop out of 3rd gear?
- Has the major service with the valve clearances and tensioner check been done?
- Has it been tracked or modified?
New Zealand notes
- FD2s in NZ are Japanese imports. Ask for the auction sheet and compare its odometer reading with the dash.
An FD2 suits a driver who wants a sharp, high revving saloon and checks the gearbox and auction history first.
US recalls
Looking up US recall data.
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