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Buying guide

Honda Civic Type R EK9 (1997 to 2000): buying guide, problems and NZ numbers

The Honda Civic Type R EK9 was built from 1997 to 2000 as a hatchback, with a manual gearbox, front wheel drive and petrol power. Chassis code: EK9. Redline has a curated guide to its 7 most reported weak points, from owner club and specialist sources.

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Key facts

Years
1997 to 2000
Chassis codes
EK9
Body types
Hatchback
Gearboxes
Manual
Drive
FWD (front wheel drive)
Fuel
Petrol

On NZ roads

Counting every one on the NZ register. The first look can take up to 15 seconds.

Known weak points

Curated by Redline from owner club and specialist sources Commonly reported by owners and specialists for the Honda Civic Type R EK9 (1997 to 2000). Not every car has these; check this one.

  1. Rust in sills, arches and screen surround

    Rust can be a major problem, especially on cars stored outside. The sills, underbody, windscreen surround and rear arches are the places to check.

    Where to look
    The sills, the underbody, the windscreen surround and the rear arches, which can be seen from inside by removing the speaker covers or through the rear light access holes
    How to test
    Use a torch through the speaker covers or light access holes to see inside the rear arches. Use a magnet or paint gauge to find repairs.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost rust repair and paint

    Sources: fastcar.co.uk (opens in a new tab), garagedreams.net (opens in a new tab)

  2. B16B oil, smoke and compression

    Metallic particles in the oil mean a rebuild budget. Blue smoke on start up and overrun points to a thrashed engine.

    Where to look
    The dipstick and oil filler cap, and the exhaust
    How to test
    Check the oil for glinting metal or a fuel or coolant smell. Have someone watch the exhaust through the rev range. Compression should be about 210 to 230 psi, within 5 to 10 percent across the cylinders.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost engine rebuild

    Sources: fastcar.co.uk (opens in a new tab), garagedreams.net (opens in a new tab)

  3. VTEC engagement

    VTEC that does not engage cleanly can come from oil pressure or coolant temperature problems.

    Where to look
    The engine, on the drive
    How to test
    Once fully warm, accelerate through the VTEC changeover several times on an open road and feel for a clean step.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost specialist diagnosis

    Sources: fastcar.co.uk (opens in a new tab), garagedreams.net (opens in a new tab)

  4. Rear engine mount

    The rear engine mount bolted to the subframe is the weak point and can wear out in as little as 40,000 to 50,000 miles.

    Where to look
    The rear engine mount on the subframe
    How to test
    Feel for a clunk when getting on and off the throttle and when changing gear.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Low cost a mount and an hour or two of labour

    Sources: fastcar.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  5. Gearbox synchros and clutch

    3rd gear synchro is the first to wear, and clutches can slip and wear quickly. The clutch slave cylinder is weak but cheap.

    Where to look
    The gear lever and clutch pedal
    How to test
    Change quickly into 3rd and listen for a crunch. Check the clutch bites about 7 to 10 cm from the floor and does not slip.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost gearbox rebuild

    Sources: fastcar.co.uk (opens in a new tab), garagedreams.net (opens in a new tab)

  6. Rear calipers

    The rear calipers are prone to sticking.

    Where to look
    The rear calipers and the handbrake
    How to test
    Check the handbrake releases fully and that the car does not drag. Feel for heat from one rear wheel after the drive.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Low cost caliper parts

    Sources: fastcar.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  7. Seat bolsters and boot leaks

    The driver seat outer bolster wears and sags, the red fabric fades to pink, and the rear light seals can leak into the boot.

    Where to look
    The driver seat, and the boot floor below the rear lights
    How to test
    Look at the bolsters and lift the boot floor to check for damp.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Low cost Recaro foam and sealant

    Sources: fastcar.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

General guidance from owner and specialist sources. Check the specific car with an independent inspection. Researched 3 November 2026.

What the cost bands mean
  • Low: a small job. Typically a few hundred dollars or less at an NZ workshop, often a DIY fix.
  • Medium: a proper workshop job. Typically several hundred to a couple of thousand dollars.
  • High: a major job. Typically several thousand dollars or more, enough to change what the car is worth.

Service items

Questions to ask the seller

  • When was the timing belt last changed?
  • Has the rear engine mount been replaced?
  • Has a compression test been done?
  • Has it been tracked?
  • Is the engine original, and do the numbers match?

New Zealand notes

  • EK9s in NZ are Japanese imports. Compare the export certificate odometer with the dash.

An EK9 suits a driver who wants a raw, high revving hot hatch and will check carefully for rust and abuse.

US recalls

Looking up US recall data.

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