REDLINE ALLEYMazda RX-7 FC buying guide
1985 to 1992. An FC suits a rotary enthusiast who budgets for a compression test before buying and a rebuild in the future.
Big jobs
- Apex seals and compression. Worn apex seals and low compression are the main rotary worry. Fast Car puts a healthy reading at about 100 psi and says anything under 70 psi points to an imminent rebuild.
- Oil supply and lubrication history. The rotary burns oil by design, so it needs regular top ups. Gaps in oil changes are a red flag, and a rough idle can come from apex seal wear caused by poor lubrication.
- Coolant seals and overheating. Overheating can blow the coolant seals, and lots of short cold runs can damage the seals too.
- Rear differential. Grinding from the rear differential, mainly when turning, is called a reason to walk away.
- Rust in water traps. Rust is reported in the sunroof sills where water collects, round the rear hatch glass frame, at the base of the aerial, on the reinforcing metal behind the front bumper and in the wheel arches.
Workshop jobs
- Clutch and gearbox synchros. A slipping clutch and crunchy synchros are listed as things to check on the 5 speed manual.
- Electrics and instrument boards. Solder joints on circuit boards crack with age. Digital instruments or a horn that does not work point to failed boards.
Small jobs
- Hesitation at 3500 to 4000 rpm. A dip in power between 3500 and 4000 rpm is reported and is often a poor earth connection in the wiring.
Questions for the seller
- Is it the turbo or the non turbo 13B, and is it manual or auto?
- Has a compression test been done, and can I see the readings for each rotor?
- When was the engine last rebuilt, and by whom?
- How often has the oil been changed, and how much does it use between changes?
- Has it ever overheated?
- Has the DTSS rear suspension been replaced with an eliminator kit?
Sources
Researched 2026-11-03. General guidance from owner and specialist sources. Check the specific car with an independent inspection.