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Buying guide

Toyota Supra A70 (1986 to 1993): buying guide, problems and NZ numbers

The Toyota Supra A70 was built from 1986 to 1993 as a coupe or targa, with a manual or automatic gearbox, rear wheel drive and petrol power. Chassis codes: MA70, MA71, JZA70 and GA70. Redline has a curated guide to its 8 most reported weak points, from owner club and specialist sources.

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Key facts

Years
1986 to 1993
Chassis codes
MA70, MA71, JZA70, GA70
Body types
Coupe, Targa
Gearboxes
Manual, Automatic
Drive
RWD (rear wheel drive)
Fuel
Petrol

On NZ roads

Counting every one on the NZ register. The first look can take up to 15 seconds.

Known weak points

Curated by Redline from owner club and specialist sources Commonly reported by owners and specialists for the Toyota Supra A70 (1986 to 1993). Not every car has these; check this one.

  1. Rust in arches, sills and strut towers

    Rust can rip through an A70. Check the rear arches, sills, strut towers, the lower edge of the windscreen and the chassis rails.

    Where to look
    The rear arches, the sills, the front strut towers, the rear strut towers behind the boot trim, the windscreen base and the chassis rails
    How to test
    Remove the boot side trim to see the rear towers. Press the sills and arch lips and look under the car with a torch.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost structural rust repair

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

  2. Water leaks

    Water gets in past tired seals, especially round the rear hatch.

    Where to look
    The hatch seals, the boot floor and the carpets
    How to test
    Lift the boot floor and feel the carpets for damp. Look for water marks and rust under the hatch seal.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost seals, and rust repair if left

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

  3. 7M-GTE head gasket and head bolts

    The original head bolt torque was too low to clamp the gasket properly, which can lead to head gasket failure. The fix is new bolts torqued to 72 lb ft.

    Where to look
    The cylinder head, the coolant and the oil
    How to test
    Ask whether the head bolts or gasket have been done. Check the oil and coolant for cross contamination and watch the exhaust for white smoke.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost head gasket and machining

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

  4. Boost increases

    Cheap bleed valves are used to raise boost, which can cause problems.

    Where to look
    The boost control pipework near the turbo
    How to test
    Ask what boost it runs and who set it up. A standard car is the safer buy.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost engine damage from overboost

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

  5. R154 and W58 manual gearboxes

    The R154 on turbo cars has a lifespan that varies widely, and the W58 on non turbo cars is lighter duty.

    Where to look
    The gear lever and clutch pedal
    How to test
    Check the clutch action is smooth and the gearbox is quiet and slick through every gear.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost gearbox rebuild

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

  6. A340E automatic

    Harsh shifts may point to a tired automatic.

    Where to look
    The automatic fluid and the Power and Overdrive buttons
    How to test
    Check the fluid colour and smell, feel each shift, and make sure the Power and Overdrive functions work.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost auto rebuild

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

  7. 1JZ-GTE cars

    Japanese market cars with the 1JZ-GTE have a cambelt and a more complicated induction setup.

    Where to look
    The engine code and the history file
    How to test
    Ask for the history and the date of the last cambelt change.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost belt and induction parts

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

  8. Pop up lights and heater controls

    The pop up headlights and the heating controls need testing, along with wear on the seat bolsters and steering wheel rim.

    Where to look
    The headlights, the heater panel, the seats and the steering wheel
    How to test
    Raise and lower the lights several times and try every heater setting. Compare bolster and wheel wear with the claimed km.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Low cost small parts and trim

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

General guidance from owner and specialist sources. Check the specific car with an independent inspection. Researched 3 November 2026.

What the cost bands mean
  • Low: a small job. Typically a few hundred dollars or less at an NZ workshop, often a DIY fix.
  • Medium: a proper workshop job. Typically several hundred to a couple of thousand dollars.
  • High: a major job. Typically several thousand dollars or more, enough to change what the car is worth.

Service items

Questions to ask the seller

  • Is it the 7M-GTE, the 7M-GE or the 1JZ-GTE?
  • Have the head gasket and head bolts been done, and is there an invoice?
  • When was the cambelt last changed?
  • What boost does it run, and how is it controlled?
  • Has any rust repair been done on the strut towers or sills?

New Zealand notes

  • Many NZ A70s are Japanese imports, including 1JZ-GTE cars. Check the engine code against the papers.

An A70 suits a buyer who wants an affordable classic turbo Toyota and will check the head gasket history and rust.

US recalls

Looking up US recall data.

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