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Buying guide

Toyota MR2 SW20 (1989 to 1999): buying guide, problems and NZ numbers

The Toyota MR2 SW20 was built from 1989 to 1999 as a coupe or targa, with a manual or automatic gearbox, rear wheel drive and petrol power. Chassis codes: SW20 and SW21. Redline has a curated guide to its 8 most reported weak points, from owner club and specialist sources.

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Key facts

Years
1989 to 1999
Chassis codes
SW20, SW21
Body types
Coupe, Targa
Gearboxes
Manual, Automatic
Drive
RWD (rear wheel drive)
Fuel
Petrol

On NZ roads

Counting every one on the NZ register. The first look can take up to 15 seconds.

Known weak points

Curated by Redline from owner club and specialist sources Commonly reported by owners and specialists for the Toyota MR2 SW20 (1989 to 1999). Not every car has these; check this one.

  1. Rear sills and quarters

    Rust in the rear sills and quarters is common, often because the sound deadening foam traps moisture.

    Where to look
    The rear sills and rear quarters, reached from inside by removing the side panels behind the seats
    How to test
    Look at the outside of the rear sills and arches for bubbling, and ask whether the foam has been removed. Use a magnet to find filler.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost rear structural rust repair

    Sources: classicsworld.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  2. Arches, stiffening bars and headlight brackets

    The rear and inner wheel arches rust, as do the stiffening bars under the car near the engine bay and the inner headlight brackets.

    Where to look
    Inside each wheel arch, the bars under the rear of the car near the engine bay, and the brackets behind the pop up headlights
    How to test
    Look under the car with a torch at the bars and arches, and open the front boot to see the headlight brackets.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost aftermarket stainless bars exist; arch repair costs more

    Sources: classicsworld.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  3. T bar roof seals

    The glass T bar roof seals are prone to leaks, and replacement seals are costly and tricky to fit.

    Where to look
    The seals round each T bar panel and the carpets and headlining below
    How to test
    Remove and refit a roof panel, check the seals for cracks and feel the carpets for damp.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost genuine seals are expensive

    Sources: classicsworld.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  4. Head gaskets

    The 3S-GE can lose its head gasket after overheating, and the fibre head gaskets on Revision 1 and 2 turbo cars can fail with age.

    Where to look
    The cylinder head, the coolant and the oil
    How to test
    Check the coolant for oil and the oil for emulsion, and watch for white smoke and a rising gauge on the drive.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost head gasket work in a mid engine car

    Sources: classicsworld.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  5. Cambelt and turbo tensioner

    Cambelts are often overlooked because they are a tight fit with the engine in place. The hydraulic tensioner on Revision 1 and 2 turbo cars can fail if not replaced on time.

    Where to look
    The cambelt cover at the end of the engine, and the service records
    How to test
    Ask for the invoice for the last belt and tensioner change. No record means budget for it straight away.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost engine damage if the belt fails

    Sources: classicsworld.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  6. Ceramic turbo shaft

    The ceramic shaft in the CT26 and CT20 turbos can become brittle, and failure can cause catastrophic damage. A steel shaft unit is advised.

    Where to look
    The turbo on the 3S-GTE
    How to test
    Ask whether the turbo has been replaced with a steel shaft unit. Watch for smoke and listen for turbo noise.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost turbo and possible engine damage

    Sources: classicsworld.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  7. Turbo coolant hoses

    The coolant hoses buried deep in the turbo engine bay are known to owners as the hoses from hell, because replacing them essentially means an engine out job.

    Where to look
    The coolant hoses under the turbo and intake on the 3S-GTE
    How to test
    Look for coolant crust and drips under the engine, and ask whether the hoses have ever been replaced.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost engine out labour

    Sources: hagerty.com (opens in a new tab)

  8. S54 gearbox 5th gear

    The 5th gear in the S54 gearbox on non turbo cars can fail.

    Where to look
    The gearbox, on the drive
    How to test
    Hold 5th under load and on the overrun and listen for whine, and check it stays in gear.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost a repair kit is available

    Sources: classicsworld.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

General guidance from owner and specialist sources. Check the specific car with an independent inspection. Researched 3 November 2026.

What the cost bands mean
  • Low: a small job. Typically a few hundred dollars or less at an NZ workshop, often a DIY fix.
  • Medium: a proper workshop job. Typically several hundred to a couple of thousand dollars.
  • High: a major job. Typically several thousand dollars or more, enough to change what the car is worth.

Service items

Questions to ask the seller

  • Is it the turbo 3S-GTE or the 3S-GE, and which revision is it?
  • When were the cambelt and tensioner last done, and is there an invoice?
  • Has the turbo been replaced with a steel shaft unit?
  • Have the turbo coolant hoses ever been replaced?
  • Has it had any accident repairs?

New Zealand notes

  • Many NZ SW20s are Japanese imports. Compare the export certificate odometer with the dash.

An SW20 suits a driver who wants a mid engine Toyota and will pay for a clean, standard car with its rust and cambelt checked.

US recalls

Looking up US recall data.

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