REDLINE ALLEYToyota Hilux 7th gen (2004 to 2015): buying guide, problems and NZ numbers
The Toyota Hilux 7th gen was built from 2004 to 2015 as a ute, with a manual or automatic gearbox, rear wheel drive or four wheel drive and petrol or diesel power. Chassis codes: KUN16, KUN26, GGN25 and TGN16. Redline has a curated guide to its 6 most reported weak points, from owner club and specialist sources.
Key facts
- Years
- 2004 to 2015
- Chassis codes
- KUN16, KUN26, GGN25, TGN16
- Body types
- Ute
- Gearboxes
- Manual, Automatic
- Drive
- RWD (rear wheel drive), 4WD (four wheel drive)
- Fuel
- Petrol, Diesel
On NZ roads
- Imported from
- Australia 63%, Japan 28%, United Kingdom 8%
- Gearboxes
- 5-Gear Manual 75%, 5-Gear Auto 13%, 4-Gear Auto 11%
- Top regions for the Toyota Hilux
- Auckland (33,924), Christchurch City (10,693), Tasman District (4,363)
The register records the model name, not the generation, so other Toyota Hilux generations built in the same years are in this count too.
Source: NZTA Waka Kotahi Motor Vehicle Register open data (opens in a new tab), CC BY 4.0. Vehicles on the register now, counted by build year.
Known weak points
Curated by Redline from owner club and specialist sources Commonly reported by owners and specialists for the Toyota Hilux N70 (2004 to 2015). Not every car has these; check this one.
1KD-FTV injector seals and oil pickup
Leaking injector seals on the 3.0 turbo diesel let blow by gases into the oil. That forms carbon which can block the oil pickup in the sump, and the worst case is engine seizure.
- Where to look
- The injector seal history in the service records, and the oil pickup in the sump
- How to test
- Ask when the injector seals were last changed. A workshop can check the pickup for carbon with a probe through the sump drain plug without taking the sump off. A rattly diesel note at idle is a reason to ask more.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- High cost a seized engine; the seal job itself is a medium cost
Sources: carsguide.com.au (opens in a new tab), drivencarguide.co.nz (opens in a new tab)
Injectors
A rattling engine on the common rail diesel is commonly put down to worn injectors, and the fix is replacing them.
- Where to look
- The injectors along the top of the engine, and any injector invoices
- How to test
- Listen at idle from cold and warm for a harsh rattle or knock. Ask whether injectors have been replaced and when.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- High cost a set of injectors and fitting
Tailshaft support bracket (4WD)
Toyota recalled 4WD models in 2010 to check for a possible failure of the tailshaft support bracket.
- Where to look
- The centre support bracket of the tailshaft under the middle of the ute
- How to test
- Ask for proof the recall work was done, or have a Toyota dealer check the VIN. Look underneath for a cracked or loose bracket.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Low cost recall work is free at a dealer
CV joint boots
Split CV joint seals are reported on 4WD models.
- Where to look
- The rubber boots on the front driveshafts behind each front wheel
- How to test
- Look for split boots and grease flung round the inside of the wheels. Listen for clicking on full lock.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Low cost boots are cheap; a worn joint costs more
Sources: carsguide.com.au (opens in a new tab), carsales.com.au (opens in a new tab)
Clutch wear
Toyota utes have a history of clutch wear, usually when used for a lot of low speed driving or towing.
- Where to look
- The clutch pedal and the towbar, and any clutch invoices
- How to test
- Check where the clutch bites. Pull away up a slope in 2nd and watch for the revs rising without the ute speeding up.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Medium cost clutch kit and labour
Underbody and tray damage from work
Work and off road use leave crushed exhausts, torn CV boots, chassis damage and dents in the tray that let rust in under a bed liner.
- Where to look
- The chassis rails, exhaust and tray floor, including under any bed liner
- How to test
- Look under the ute with a torch for bent or crushed parts. Ask the seller to lift the bed liner so you can see the tray floor.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Medium cost depends on what is bent or rusted
Sources: carsales.com.au (opens in a new tab)
General guidance from owner and specialist sources. Check the specific car with an independent inspection. Researched 1 November 2026.
What the cost bands mean
- Low: a small job. Typically a few hundred dollars or less at an NZ workshop, often a DIY fix.
- Medium: a proper workshop job. Typically several hundred to a couple of thousand dollars.
- High: a major job. Typically several thousand dollars or more, enough to change what the car is worth.
Service items
- Injector seals (3.0 diesel): every 45,000 km, as Toyota NZ required. Stops blow by gases carbonising the oil. (drivencarguide.co.nz (opens in a new tab))
- Engine oil and filter: per the Toyota schedule; ask for proof of regular changes. Clean oil matters on the 1KD-FTV because of the seal issue. (carsguide.com.au (opens in a new tab))
Questions to ask the seller
- When were the injector seals last done, and at what km?
- Has the oil pickup ever been checked for carbon?
- Has the tailshaft bracket recall been done?
- Has it towed heavy loads, and has the clutch been replaced?
- Can the bed liner come out so I can see the tray floor?
New Zealand notes
- Toyota NZ required the 3.0 diesel injector seals to be changed every 45,000 km. Ask for those invoices.
- Lifts and big tyres are common on Hiluxes; more than simple changes need LVVTA certification.
An N70 suits a buyer who wants a simple, proven work ute and can confirm the injector seal history.
US recalls
Looking up US recall data.
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