Toyota Altezza XE10 (1998 to 2005): buying guide, problems and NZ numbers
The Toyota Altezza XE10 was built from 1998 to 2005 as a sedan or wagon, with a manual or automatic gearbox, rear wheel drive or all wheel drive and petrol power. Chassis codes: SXE10, GXE10, JCE10 and GXE15. Redline has a curated guide to its 5 most reported weak points, from owner club and specialist sources.
Key facts
- Years
- 1998 to 2005
- Chassis codes
- SXE10, GXE10, JCE10, GXE15
- Body types
- Sedan, Wagon
- Gearboxes
- Manual, Automatic
- Drive
- RWD (rear wheel drive), AWD (all wheel drive)
- Fuel
- Petrol
On NZ roads
Counting every one on the NZ register. The first look can take up to 15 seconds.
Known weak points
Curated by Redline from owner club and specialist sources Commonly reported by owners and specialists for the Toyota Altezza and Lexus IS200 (first generation) (1998 to 2005). Not every car has these; check this one.
Clutch judder on the 6 speed
Clutch judder is reported on early 6 speed manual cars, and some warranty clutches did not cure it.
- Where to look
- The clutch pedal
- How to test
- Pull away gently from rest several times and feel for judder.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Medium cost clutch replacement
Sources: fastcar.co.uk (opens in a new tab), lexusownersclub.co.uk (opens in a new tab)
Alloy wheel corrosion
The standard alloys are very prone to corrosion.
- Where to look
- The wheel rims, inside and out
- How to test
- Look at each rim for bubbling and lifting paint, and at the tyre bead for slow leaks.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Low cost wheel refurbishment
Sources: fastcar.co.uk (opens in a new tab), lexusownersclub.co.uk (opens in a new tab)
Inner tyre wear
The standard suspension geometry wears the inner edges of the tyres.
- Where to look
- The inner edges of the tyres
- How to test
- Run a hand along the inner tread of each tyre, and ask whether the geometry has been reset.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Low cost tyres and an alignment
Accident damage
The rear drive car has caught plenty of owners out, so accident damage needs checking.
- Where to look
- The panel gaps, the paint and the front and rear crumple areas
- How to test
- Look for uneven gaps, overspray and mismatched paint.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- High cost poor crash repair
Sources: fastcar.co.uk (opens in a new tab)
Poor modifications
Modified cars can show condensation in the headlamps from poor resealing, DIY wiring and accessories that are not legal.
- Where to look
- The headlamps and the wiring under the dash and in the engine bay
- How to test
- Look inside the headlamps for moisture and check for spliced or loose wiring.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Medium cost headlamps and wiring
General guidance from owner and specialist sources. Check the specific car with an independent inspection. Researched 3 November 2026.
What the cost bands mean
- Low: a small job. Typically a few hundred dollars or less at an NZ workshop, often a DIY fix.
- Medium: a proper workshop job. Typically several hundred to a couple of thousand dollars.
- High: a major job. Typically several thousand dollars or more, enough to change what the car is worth.
Questions to ask the seller
- Is it the RS200 with the 3S-GE or the AS200 with the 1G-FE, and manual or auto?
- Has the clutch ever been replaced for judder?
- Is there a service history?
- Has it been modified?
New Zealand notes
- Most NZ cars are Japanese import Altezzas. Compare the export certificate odometer with the dash.
An Altezza suits a buyer who wants an affordable rear drive sports saloon and checks for accident damage first.
US recalls
Looking up US recall data.
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