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Buying guide

Subaru WRX STI GC (1994 to 2000): buying guide, problems and NZ numbers

The Subaru WRX STI GC was built from 1994 to 2000 as a sedan, coupe or wagon, with a manual gearbox, all wheel drive and petrol power. Chassis codes: GC8 and GF8. Redline has a curated guide to its 7 most reported weak points, from owner club and specialist sources.

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Key facts

Years
1994 to 2000
Chassis codes
GC8, GF8
Body types
Sedan, Coupe, Wagon
Gearboxes
Manual
Drive
AWD (all wheel drive)
Fuel
Petrol

On NZ roads

Counting every one on the NZ register. The first look can take up to 15 seconds.

Known weak points

Curated by Redline from owner club and specialist sources Commonly reported by owners and specialists for the Subaru Impreza WRX and STI GC8 (1992 to 2000). Not every car has these; check this one.

  1. Rear strut turrets and arches

    Rust in the rear wheel arches and rear strut turrets is reported, and turret rust can affect the structure.

    Where to look
    The rear strut turrets inside the boot behind the trim, and the rear wheel arch lips
    How to test
    Pull back the boot trim and look at the turret tops with a torch. Check the arches for bubbling, past repairs and fresh underseal.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost structural welding at the turrets

    Sources: fastcar.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  2. EJ20 cylinder 4 and bottom end

    A tapping noise from cold, linked to cylinder 4 running hotter, can get worse until it is constant, by which point a rebuild is likely. Any knocking can mean piston slap, worn rings or bottom end damage.

    Where to look
    The engine from a cold start, the exhaust, and the coolant reservoir
    How to test
    Listen from a true cold start for tapping or knocking, watch for smoke, and check for oil in the coolant. Ask for a compression test.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost engine rebuild

    Sources: fastcar.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  3. Cam and valve cover oil leaks

    Old cam seals and valve cover gaskets are known to leak oil.

    Where to look
    The cam covers on each side of the boxer engine and the front cam seals behind the timing covers
    How to test
    Look for wet oil on the heads and oil spots under the car where it is parked.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Low cost gaskets and seals

    Sources: fastcar.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  4. Clutch and gearbox

    Clutches often wear out well before 40,000 miles, judder is common, and crunching can mean worn synchros. The rear diff can be noisy.

    Where to look
    The clutch pedal, gear lever and the rear diff
    How to test
    Check the gears engage cleanly up and down, feel for judder pulling away, and listen for rear diff noise, especially reversing.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost clutch kit and 4 to 5 hours of labour

    Sources: fastcar.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  5. Rear brake calipers

    Early cars have single piston rear calipers that are well known for seizing and sticking on.

    Where to look
    The rear calipers
    How to test
    After the drive, check whether one rear wheel is much hotter than the other, and feel for drag or pull.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Low cost rebuild kits are cheap

    Sources: fastcar.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  6. Strut top mounts and anti roll bar bushes

    Strut top mounts and anti roll bar bushes perish, and worn bushes clonk.

    Where to look
    The top mounts under the bonnet and in the boot, and the anti roll bar bushes underneath
    How to test
    Listen for clonks over bumps and on and off the throttle.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Low cost bushes and mounts

    Sources: fastcar.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  7. Remapped engines

    Poor mapping can cause serious engine damage, so remapped cars should have been tuned by a reputable firm.

    Where to look
    The ECU and the tuning paperwork
    How to test
    Ask who mapped it, what boost it runs and for the dyno sheet.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost engine damage from a bad map

    Sources: fastcar.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

General guidance from owner and specialist sources. Check the specific car with an independent inspection. Researched 1 November 2026.

What the cost bands mean
  • Low: a small job. Typically a few hundred dollars or less at an NZ workshop, often a DIY fix.
  • Medium: a proper workshop job. Typically several hundred to a couple of thousand dollars.
  • High: a major job. Typically several thousand dollars or more, enough to change what the car is worth.

Service items

Questions to ask the seller

  • When were the cambelt and tensioner last done, and at what km?
  • Has it been remapped, and by whom?
  • Has the clutch been replaced?
  • Has any rust repair been done to the rear turrets or arches?
  • Is it a WRX or an STi, and which version does the chassis number confirm?

New Zealand notes

  • Most GC8s in NZ are Japanese imports. Compare the export certificate odometer with the dash, and check STi version claims against the chassis number.

A GC8 suits a buyer who wants the classic rally era Impreza and will check the engine and turrets properly.

US recalls

Looking up US recall data.

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