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Buying guide

Subaru Forester SJ (2012 to 2018): buying guide, problems and NZ numbers

The Subaru Forester SJ was built from 2012 to 2018 as an SUV or wagon, with a manual or automatic gearbox, all wheel drive and petrol or diesel power. Chassis codes: SJ5 and SJG. Redline has a curated guide to its 8 most reported weak points, from owner club and specialist sources.

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Key facts

Years
2012 to 2018
Chassis codes
SJ5, SJG
Body types
SUV, Wagon
Gearboxes
Manual, Automatic
Drive
AWD (all wheel drive)
Fuel
Petrol, Diesel

On NZ roads

Counting every one on the NZ register. The first look can take up to 15 seconds.

Known weak points

Curated by Redline from owner club and specialist sources Commonly reported by owners and specialists for the Subaru Forester SJ (2013 to 2018). Not every car has these; check this one.

  1. 2.5 oil consumption

    Excessive oil use on the 2.5 is reported, put down to mis manufactured engine parts on early cars, with factory revisions from about 2015. Subaru says 1 litre per 2,000 km is normal.

    Where to look
    The dipstick, and the oil top up history
    How to test
    Check the oil level and ask how much it uses. Avoid an engine that rattles at start up, which may have been run low.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost engine parts or a replacement engine

    Sources: carsales.com.au (opens in a new tab), autotrader.ca (opens in a new tab)

  2. CVT reverse delay and shudder

    Slow engagement of reverse (owners report 4 seconds or more against the normal 1 to 2), hesitation, whine and shudder under load are reported. Subaru fixed it with fresh fluid and a control module reset, but it can come back.

    Where to look
    The CVT, felt from the driver seat, and the CVT fluid records
    How to test
    Select reverse and time it, then accelerate from a stop and feel for hesitation or shudder. Ask for proof of CVT fluid changes at a Subaru dealer.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost CVT repair

    Sources: carsales.com.au (opens in a new tab), autotrader.ca (opens in a new tab)

  3. 2.0 turbo direct injection carbon

    Carbon builds up on the valves of the direct injected 2.0 turbo XT as it ages, and regular fuel hurts performance.

    Where to look
    The 2.0 turbo engine, and the plug and oil change records
    How to test
    Feel for rough running or hesitation and ask for records of early plug and oil changes.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost an intake clean

    Sources: autotrader.ca (opens in a new tab)

  4. Driveline, steering and suspension noises

    Clunks or pops when steering slowly or over bumps, droning or humming, and worn struts and bushes are reported.

    Where to look
    The struts, bushes, driveshafts and wheel bearings
    How to test
    Drive on a rough road with the radio and fan off and listen for clunks and hums. Check for uneven tyre wear.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost struts, bushes or bearings

    Sources: autotrader.ca (opens in a new tab), carsales.com.au (opens in a new tab)

  5. Electrics, screen and backlighting

    Infotainment, sensor and dash display faults are reported, and blown fuses can kill the dash backlighting or radio.

    Where to look
    The touch screen, instrument backlighting and 12 volt outlet fuses
    How to test
    Work through the touch screen and check it responds first time. Check the dash backlighting in shade.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Low cost fuses or software

    Sources: carsales.com.au (opens in a new tab), autotrader.ca (opens in a new tab)

  6. Exhaust corrosion

    Rust and corrosion on the exhaust lead to leaks and more noise.

    Where to look
    The exhaust pipes and muffler under the car
    How to test
    Look underneath at the exhaust for rust and listen for blowing or a louder note.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost exhaust sections

    Sources: carsales.com.au (opens in a new tab)

  7. Underbody damage

    Foresters need checking for underbody damage, and bare metal from scrapes should be fixed before purchase.

    Where to look
    The underbody, sills and bumper corners
    How to test
    Look underneath with a torch for scrapes, dents and rust.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost depends on what is damaged

    Sources: carsales.com.au (opens in a new tab)

  8. Hard starting

    Slow starting is often a short lived factory battery, or fixed by a dealer software update.

    Where to look
    The battery, and the dealer record for software updates
    How to test
    Check it starts first time and ask when the battery was replaced.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Low cost a battery or update

    Sources: autotrader.ca (opens in a new tab)

General guidance from owner and specialist sources. Check the specific car with an independent inspection. Researched 4 November 2026.

What the cost bands mean
  • Low: a small job. Typically a few hundred dollars or less at an NZ workshop, often a DIY fix.
  • Medium: a proper workshop job. Typically several hundred to a couple of thousand dollars.
  • High: a major job. Typically several thousand dollars or more, enough to change what the car is worth.

Questions to ask the seller

  • Is it the 2.0 or 2.5 petrol, the 2.0 XT turbo or the diesel?
  • How much oil does it use, and has any engine work been done for oil use?
  • When was the CVT fluid last changed, and by whom?
  • Has it been off road?

US recalls

Looking up US recall data.

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