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Buying guide

Porsche Boxster Spyder 987 (2010 to 2012): buying guide, problems and NZ numbers

The Porsche Boxster Spyder 987 was built from 2010 to 2012 as a convertible, with a manual, automatic or dual clutch gearbox, rear wheel drive and petrol power. Chassis code: 987. Redline has a curated guide to its 8 most reported weak points, from owner club and specialist sources.

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Key facts

Years
2010 to 2012
Chassis codes
987
Body types
Convertible
Gearboxes
Manual, Automatic, Dual clutch
Drive
RWD (rear wheel drive)
Fuel
Petrol

On NZ roads

Counting every one on the NZ register. The first look can take up to 15 seconds.

Known weak points

Curated by Redline from owner club and specialist sources Commonly reported by owners and specialists for the Porsche Boxster 987 (2004 to 2012). Not every car has these; check this one.

  1. IMS bearing (early cars)

    The intermediate shaft bearing can fail. Later cars from about late 2006 have the stronger, relocated bearing.

    Where to look
    The rear of the engine, and the service records
    How to test
    Listen for bearing type noises from the rear of the engine and ask for any replacement invoice.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost engine rebuild if it fails

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), evo.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  2. Bore scoring (3.4 S before 2009)

    Bore scoring affects roughly 1 in 20 pre direct injection 3.4 S engines. A low oil level and tapping noises are signs.

    Where to look
    The dipstick and the engine
    How to test
    Check the oil level and listen for tapping when warm. Ask for a borescope inspection.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost engine rebuild

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

  3. Rear main seal

    A small oil leak from the rear main seal is common and is best fixed with the clutch.

    Where to look
    The join between the engine and gearbox
    How to test
    Look for oil at the bellhousing. No drip on the floor means it can usually wait.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost gearbox off job

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), evo.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  4. Oil separator

    Blue smoke while running points to a broken oil separator. A brief puff on start up is normal for a flat six.

    Where to look
    The exhaust, and the oil separator on the engine
    How to test
    Watch the exhaust while driving and after a long idle.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost separator and labour

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), evo.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  5. 6 speed popping out of 2nd

    The 6 speed manual has a reputation for popping out of 2nd. The fix is a strip down and rebuild with a modified detent.

    Where to look
    The gear lever
    How to test
    Accelerate firmly in 2nd and on the overrun and check it stays in gear.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost gearbox rebuild

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), evo.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  6. Springs, bushes and rose joints

    Broken coil springs are very common, bottom arm bushes can delaminate from about 30,000 miles, and trailing arm rose joints wear and knock.

    Where to look
    The coil springs, bottom arm bushes and trailing arm joints at each corner
    How to test
    Look at how the car sits and listen for creaks and knocks over bad roads.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost about 200 pounds a bush in the UK

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), evo.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  7. Front radiators and condensers

    Leaves in the front vents rot the radiators and air conditioning condensers, which often fail after about 8 years.

    Where to look
    Behind the front bumper vents
    How to test
    Shine a torch into the vents for leaves and corrosion.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost condenser repairs run to four figures

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), evo.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  8. Roof and drains

    A creaking roof suggests dry joints and broken pushrods are common. Blocked roof drains let water behind the seats where an ECU sits.

    Where to look
    The roof mechanism, the drain holes and the area behind the seats
    How to test
    Raise and lower the roof listening for creaks, and check behind the seats for water.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost a wet ECU is expensive

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), evo.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

General guidance from owner and specialist sources. Check the specific car with an independent inspection. Researched 3 November 2026.

What the cost bands mean
  • Low: a small job. Typically a few hundred dollars or less at an NZ workshop, often a DIY fix.
  • Medium: a proper workshop job. Typically several hundred to a couple of thousand dollars.
  • High: a major job. Typically several thousand dollars or more, enough to change what the car is worth.

Service items

Questions to ask the seller

  • Is it the 2.7, 3.2 S, 3.4 S or a direct injection car from 2009?
  • Has the engine had a borescope check?
  • Does it pop out of 2nd gear?
  • When were the coil springs and bottom arm bushes last replaced?
  • Has the cabin ever been wet?

US recalls

Looking up US recall data.

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