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Buying guide

Porsche 911 991 (2011 to 2019): buying guide, problems and NZ numbers

The Porsche 911 991 was built from 2011 to 2019 as a coupe, targa or convertible, with a manual or dual clutch gearbox, rear wheel drive or all wheel drive and petrol power. Chassis code: 991. Redline has a curated guide to its 8 most reported weak points, from owner club and specialist sources.

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Key facts

Years
2011 to 2019
Chassis codes
991
Body types
Coupe, Targa, Convertible
Gearboxes
Manual, Dual clutch
Drive
RWD (rear wheel drive), AWD (all wheel drive)
Fuel
Petrol

On NZ roads

Counting every one on the NZ register. The first look can take up to 15 seconds.

Known weak points

Curated by Redline from owner club and specialist sources Commonly reported by owners and specialists for the Porsche 911 991 Carrera (2011 to 2019). Not every car has these; check this one.

  1. Coil packs and crank sensor (991.1)

    Coil packs cause misfires, and a crank sensor fault gives low rev cut outs that are worse when hot.

    Where to look
    The coil packs on top of each cylinder bank, and the crank sensor
    How to test
    Feel for misfires and for the engine cutting out at low revs after a long drive.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost coils and sensors

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

  2. PDK faults

    PDK actuator control units can fail, a Transm. Fault message can appear, and an emergency run warning may mean a new gearbox. The cooler flange can also leak.

    Where to look
    The gear selector, the dash warnings and the PDK cooler under the car
    How to test
    Check for any gearbox warnings on the dash, try every mode and reverse, and look under the car for oil spots.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost PDK gearboxes are not cheap to replace

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

  3. Air conditioning drain and wet carpets (991.1)

    On early cars the air conditioning drain pipe can come off, sometimes because a circlip was missing, letting water into the front footwells.

    Where to look
    The front footwell carpets
    How to test
    Feel under the front carpets for damp and smell for mould.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost refitting the drain and drying out the cabin

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

  4. Front suspension noise

    Front suspension noise is often the top strut mounts but can be a leaking damper. A knock on full lock at low speed is normal.

    Where to look
    The front strut tops and dampers
    How to test
    Listen over bumps and look for oil on the front dampers.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost mounts or dampers

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

  5. Cracking steel brake discs

    Steel discs can crack between the drilled holes and squeal. Carbon ceramics do not suffer this.

    Where to look
    The brake discs round the drill holes
    How to test
    Look at each disc face through the wheel for cracks.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost new discs and pads

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

  6. Water pumps and expansion tank (991.2)

    Some water pumps were replaced early for leaks, mainly on cars built late 2017 to early 2018. An expansion tank recall covers false coolant warnings.

    Where to look
    The water pump area under the engine and the coolant tank
    How to test
    Look for coolant crust under the engine and confirm the recall work with a Porsche centre.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost water pump replacement

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

  7. Plastic sump (991.2)

    Owners reported sump threads failing, and the plastic drain plug torque was questioned.

    Where to look
    The sump and drain plug under the engine
    How to test
    Look for oil at the sump and drain plug, and ask who did the last oil change.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost a replacement sump

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

  8. Rear tyre wear and alignment

    Uneven rear tyre wear needs investigating, and some cars left the factory outside alignment tolerances.

    Where to look
    The rear tyres
    How to test
    Look at the inner and outer edges of the rear tyres and check they are N rated.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Low cost tyres and an alignment

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

General guidance from owner and specialist sources. Check the specific car with an independent inspection. Researched 3 November 2026.

What the cost bands mean
  • Low: a small job. Typically a few hundred dollars or less at an NZ workshop, often a DIY fix.
  • Medium: a proper workshop job. Typically several hundred to a couple of thousand dollars.
  • High: a major job. Typically several thousand dollars or more, enough to change what the car is worth.

Service items

Questions to ask the seller

  • Is it a 991.1 or 991.2, and PDK or manual?
  • Has the PDK shown any faults or had any work?
  • Have all recalls been completed?
  • Have the front carpets ever been wet?
  • Are the tyres N rated, and how old are they?

US recalls

Looking up US recall data.

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