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Buying guide

Porsche 911 Carrera S 964 (1989 to 1994): buying guide, problems and NZ numbers

The Porsche 911 Carrera S 964 was built from 1989 to 1994 as a coupe, targa or convertible, with a manual or automatic gearbox, rear wheel drive or all wheel drive and petrol power. Chassis code: 964. Redline has a curated guide to its 8 most reported weak points, from owner club and specialist sources.

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Key facts

Years
1989 to 1994
Chassis codes
964
Body types
Coupe, Targa, Convertible
Gearboxes
Manual, Automatic
Drive
RWD (rear wheel drive), AWD (all wheel drive)
Fuel
Petrol

On NZ roads

Counting every one on the NZ register. The first look can take up to 15 seconds.

Known weak points

Curated by Redline from owner club and specialist sources Commonly reported by owners and specialists for the Porsche 911 964 Carrera (1989 to 1994). Not every car has these; check this one.

  1. Cylinder head studs

    Failing head studs are the most likely engine fault. Oil leaks and a misfire at high speed are the signs.

    Where to look
    The cylinder heads at each side of the engine
    How to test
    Look for oil weeping at the head joints and feel for a misfire at high revs on the drive.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost Hagerty puts both heads at about 7,000 pounds; PistonHeads says 5,000 to 10,000

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), hagerty.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  2. Oil leaks from covers and gaskets

    Valve and timing chain covers seep oil. Pre 1991 cars leaked at the head to block gasket; the sealing was improved from about August 1990.

    Where to look
    The valve covers, timing chain covers and head to block joints, and the engine undertray
    How to test
    Look underneath. An undertray that looks suspiciously clean and dry may have just been wiped.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost up to about 500 pounds for gaskets and seals, more for bigger leaks

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), hagerty.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  3. Twin distributor drive belt

    The belt that drives the second distributor can snap and cause terminal engine damage. A vent modification prevents it.

    Where to look
    The distributors at the front of the engine
    How to test
    Ask for proof the distributor vent kit has been fitted.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost engine damage if the belt breaks

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), hagerty.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  4. Dual mass flywheel

    Early manual cars up to 1992 are more prone to flywheel failure. Rattle and vibration at idle or a clonk under power are the signs. Most original units should have been replaced with the later type.

    Where to look
    The flywheel between engine and gearbox
    How to test
    Listen at idle in neutral for rattling and feel for a clonk when accelerating. Ask for the invoice for any replacement.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost about 1,000 pounds plus a clutch

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), hagerty.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  5. Rust in screens, wings and suspension mounts

    Rust shows round the headlamps, where the front wings meet the bumpers, round the front and rear screens, in the rear arches and in the inner arches at the suspension mounts. Rotten rear suspension mounts are very expensive.

    Where to look
    The headlamp surrounds, the wing to bumper seams, the screen surrounds, the rear arches and the inner arches at the suspension mounts
    How to test
    Check these areas first; if they are sound the rest is likely good. Look at the VIN tab under the fuel tank for signs of accident repair.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost structural repair at the suspension mounts

    Sources: hagerty.co.uk (opens in a new tab), pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

  6. ABS module and power steering

    ABS module failure is costly, though dirty or loose accelerometers in the transmission tunnel can be the simpler cause. Poor steering can come from a leaking hose between pump and reservoir.

    Where to look
    The ABS warning light, the accelerometers in the tunnel, and the power steering hoses
    How to test
    Check the ABS light goes out and look for fluid on the steering hoses.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost a cheap hose, or a costly ABS module

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

  7. Dampers and front control arm bushes

    Ride quality deteriorates, and front lower control arm bushes are due on cars over 70,000 miles.

    Where to look
    The dampers and the front lower control arm bushes
    How to test
    Feel for knocks and a floaty ride over bumps.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost dampers and bushes

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

  8. Mileage records

    The speedo is easy to tamper with.

    Where to look
    The odometer and the service records
    How to test
    Compare the reading with the service and warrant records, and with wear on the pedals, seats and wheel.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost unknown mileage changes the value

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

General guidance from owner and specialist sources. Check the specific car with an independent inspection. Researched 3 November 2026.

What the cost bands mean
  • Low: a small job. Typically a few hundred dollars or less at an NZ workshop, often a DIY fix.
  • Medium: a proper workshop job. Typically several hundred to a couple of thousand dollars.
  • High: a major job. Typically several thousand dollars or more, enough to change what the car is worth.

Service items

Questions to ask the seller

  • Has the distributor vent kit been fitted?
  • Has the dual mass flywheel been replaced, and with which type?
  • Have the head studs ever been done?
  • Is it a Cabriolet or Targa, and are the carpets dry?
  • Is it a C2 or C4, and manual or Tiptronic?

US recalls

Looking up US recall data.

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