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Buying guide

Porsche 911 Carrera RS 993 (1994 to 1996): buying guide, problems and NZ numbers

The Porsche 911 Carrera RS 993 was built from 1994 to 1996 as a coupe, with a manual gearbox, rear wheel drive and petrol power. Chassis code: 993. Redline has a curated guide to its 8 most reported weak points, from owner club and specialist sources.

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Key facts

Years
1994 to 1996
Chassis codes
993
Body types
Coupe
Gearboxes
Manual
Drive
RWD (rear wheel drive)
Fuel
Petrol

On NZ roads

No Porsche 911 Carrera RS built 1994 to 1996 found on the NZ register under that model name. Some imports are registered under another model name.

Source: NZTA Waka Kotahi Motor Vehicle Register open data (opens in a new tab), CC BY 4.0. Vehicles on the register now, counted by build year.

Known weak points

Curated by Redline from owner club and specialist sources Commonly reported by owners and specialists for the Porsche 911 993 Carrera (1994 to 1998). Not every car has these; check this one.

  1. Oil leaks and smoke

    Leaks from the lower cam covers are common but simple to sort. Any oil leak in the engine bay is a cause for concern, and smoke on a cold start is a warning sign.

    Where to look
    The lower cam covers, the engine bay and the exhaust
    How to test
    Look underneath and sniff for burning oil from the heat exchangers. Start the car from cold and watch the exhaust. Read the dipstick only when the engine is fully warm.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost simple cam cover gaskets, more for bigger leaks

    Sources: hagerty.co.uk (opens in a new tab), pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

  2. Heat exchangers

    The heat exchangers can rust and are expensive to replace.

    Where to look
    The heat exchangers under the engine
    How to test
    Look underneath with a torch for rust and holes.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost expensive parts

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

  3. High oil temperature

    High oil temperature on a test drive can point to a faulty cooling fan or switch.

    Where to look
    The oil temperature gauge, and the cooling fan
    How to test
    Watch the gauge on a long drive and in traffic.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost fan or switch

    Sources: hagerty.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  4. Gear linkage

    If the gear lever does not engage smoothly, the linkage is the most likely cause.

    Where to look
    The gear lever and linkage
    How to test
    Change through every gear and feel for stiffness or vagueness.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost a new linkage

    Sources: hagerty.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  5. Front lower control arm bushes

    The front lower control arm bushes wear and are a common replacement, often with new dampers.

    Where to look
    The front lower control arms
    How to test
    Feel for knocks and vague steering over bumps.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost bushes and dampers

    Sources: hagerty.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  6. Corrosion round screens and lights

    Bubbling round the front and rear screens is reported, along with rust at the headlight apertures, bumper brackets and rear chassis legs. Poor accident repairs cause much of it.

    Where to look
    The front and rear screen surrounds, the headlight apertures, the bumper brackets and the rear chassis legs
    How to test
    Look round each screen rubber for bubbles and under the car at the rear legs.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost glass out paint repair or structural work

    Sources: hagerty.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  7. Door check straps

    A broken door check strap creaks when the door opens and is fiddly and can be expensive to put right.

    Where to look
    The door check strap at the front of each door
    How to test
    Open each door slowly and listen for a creak.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost fiddly labour

    Sources: hagerty.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  8. Sunroof and air conditioning

    A faulty sunroof is costly to repair, and a new air conditioning compressor and pipework runs to four figures.

    Where to look
    The sunroof and the air conditioning
    How to test
    Open and close the sunroof fully and check the air blows cold.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost four figure bills

    Sources: hagerty.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

General guidance from owner and specialist sources. Check the specific car with an independent inspection. Researched 3 November 2026.

What the cost bands mean
  • Low: a small job. Typically a few hundred dollars or less at an NZ workshop, often a DIY fix.
  • Medium: a proper workshop job. Typically several hundred to a couple of thousand dollars.
  • High: a major job. Typically several thousand dollars or more, enough to change what the car is worth.

Service items

Questions to ask the seller

  • Has it ever had engine work, or the heat exchangers replaced?
  • When were the front lower control arm bushes last done?
  • Does the sunroof work, and does the air conditioning blow cold?
  • Is it a C2 or C4, and manual or Tiptronic?
  • Has it had any accident repairs?

US recalls

Looking up US recall data.

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