REDLINE ALLEYNissan Silvia S14 (1993 to 1998): buying guide, problems and NZ numbers
The Nissan Silvia S14 was built from 1993 to 1998 as a coupe, with a manual or automatic gearbox, rear wheel drive and petrol power. Chassis codes: S14 and CS14. Redline has a curated guide to its 7 most reported weak points, from owner club and specialist sources.
Key facts
- Years
- 1993 to 1998
- Chassis codes
- S14, CS14
- Body types
- Coupe
- Gearboxes
- Manual, Automatic
- Drive
- RWD (rear wheel drive)
- Fuel
- Petrol
On NZ roads
Counting every one on the NZ register. The first look can take up to 15 seconds.
Known weak points
Curated by Redline from owner club and specialist sources Commonly reported by owners and specialists for the Nissan Silvia S14 (1993 to 1998). Not every car has these; check this one.
Camshaft wear from missed oil changes
Accelerated camshaft wear is reported, especially where oil changes have been skipped. Nissan specifies oil every 10,000 km, and an owner quoted by carsales says 5,000 km should be the maximum.
- Where to look
- The service records, and under the oil filler cap
- How to test
- Check the oil change history and look under the filler cap for sludge. Listen for ticking from the top of the engine.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- High cost camshafts and top end work
Sources: autoexpress.co.uk (opens in a new tab), carsales.com.au (opens in a new tab)
VVT rattle on start up
A rattle on start up can point to a worn variable valve timing system.
- Where to look
- The front of the SR20DET cylinder head
- How to test
- Start the engine from cold and listen at the front of the head for a rattle in the first few seconds.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Medium cost VVT parts
Turbo gaskets and exhaust manifold
Blown turbo gaskets make the car very noisy at idle, and the exhaust manifold is a weak point that can leak. A constant whistle from the turbo area usually means a manifold leak from stretched bolts.
- Where to look
- The turbo and exhaust manifold joints at the front of the engine
- How to test
- Listen at idle and under light load for a whistle or ticking, and look for black soot round the joints.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Medium cost gaskets and studs; an easy fix in many cases
Sources: autoexpress.co.uk (opens in a new tab), carsales.com.au (opens in a new tab)
Turbo failure
Excessive blue smoke and oil leaking from the turbo manifold can mean the turbo itself has failed.
- Where to look
- The turbo and the exhaust
- How to test
- Look for oil round the turbo and watch the exhaust under boost and on overrun.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- High cost turbo replacement
Clutch, synchros and auto shudder
Crunching when engaging gear points to worn synchros. Manual clutch shudder is common, and shudder on automatic upshifts is more serious and costly.
- Where to look
- The gear lever and clutch pedal, or the auto selector
- How to test
- Change through every gear and listen for crunching. Pull away gently and feel for clutch shudder. On an auto, feel for shudder on each upshift.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- High cost gearbox or auto rebuild
Sources: autoexpress.co.uk (opens in a new tab), carsales.com.au (opens in a new tab)
Arches, struts, sills and floor rust
Rust is reported in the front and rear wheel arches, inside the wheel wells and suspension struts, the sills and the floor pan. Damp under the boot carpet is another sign.
- Where to look
- The front and rear arches, the strut tops, the sills, the floor pan and under the boot carpet
- How to test
- Prod the sills, look inside the arches with a torch and lift the boot carpet. Get the car on a ramp to check the floor.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- High cost structural rust repair
Sources: autoexpress.co.uk (opens in a new tab), carsales.com.au (opens in a new tab)
Accident repairs and sagging doors
Poor repairs show in bonnet and boot lid fit, paint match and bumper alignment. The doors drop with age and use.
- Where to look
- The bonnet, boot lid, bumpers and door shut lines
- How to test
- Check panel gaps and paint match in daylight, and open and close each door to feel whether it lifts as it latches.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Medium cost panel and paint work
Sources: carsales.com.au (opens in a new tab), autoexpress.co.uk (opens in a new tab)
General guidance from owner and specialist sources. Check the specific car with an independent inspection. Researched 3 November 2026.
What the cost bands mean
- Low: a small job. Typically a few hundred dollars or less at an NZ workshop, often a DIY fix.
- Medium: a proper workshop job. Typically several hundred to a couple of thousand dollars.
- High: a major job. Typically several thousand dollars or more, enough to change what the car is worth.
Service items
- Engine oil and filter: Nissan specifies 10,000 km; an owner recommends 5,000 km as the absolute maximum. Camshaft wear follows missed changes. (carsales.com.au (opens in a new tab))
- Front end suspension parts: cars over 150,000 km should have receipts for front end work. Worn parts make the steering vague. (carsales.com.au (opens in a new tab))
Questions to ask the seller
- How often has the oil been changed, and are there receipts?
- Does it rattle on a cold start?
- Has the exhaust manifold or turbo been replaced?
- Is it standard, and if not, who did the modifications?
- Has it had any accident repairs?
New Zealand notes
- Most NZ S14s are Japanese import Silvias. Compare the export certificate odometer with the dash.
- Modified cars need LVVTA certification for many changes; ask to see the plate.
An S14 suits a buyer who wants a well balanced turbo coupe and will pay more for a standard, well serviced example.
US recalls
Looking up US recall data.
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