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Buying guide

Nissan 350Z Z33 (2002 to 2008): buying guide, problems and NZ numbers

The Nissan 350Z Z33 was built from 2002 to 2008 as a coupe or convertible, with a manual or automatic gearbox, rear wheel drive and petrol power. Chassis codes: Z33 and HZ33. Redline has a curated guide to its 7 most reported weak points, from owner club and specialist sources.

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Key facts

Years
2002 to 2008
Chassis codes
Z33, HZ33
Body types
Coupe, Convertible
Gearboxes
Manual, Automatic
Drive
RWD (rear wheel drive)
Fuel
Petrol

On NZ roads

Counting every one on the NZ register. The first look can take up to 15 seconds.

Known weak points

Curated by Redline from owner club and specialist sources Commonly reported by owners and specialists for the Nissan 350Z (2002 to 2008). Not every car has these; check this one.

  1. VQ35 oil consumption

    Piston rings are called the weak spot, and some 2006 to 2007 cars and GT models with revised valve timing used a lot of oil. By the time the oil light comes on, damage is probably done.

    Where to look
    The dipstick, and the oil top up history
    How to test
    Check the oil level first thing and ask the owner how much it uses between services. Smoke may not show because of the catalytic converters.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost a replacement engine

    Sources: evo.co.uk (opens in a new tab), pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

  2. 6 speed gearbox synchros (early cars)

    Early cars can grind or crunch between 1st and 2nd, worst when cold. A buzz through the lever and a heavy change are normal.

    Where to look
    The gear lever
    How to test
    From cold, change 1st to 2nd several times and listen for grinding.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost gearbox rebuild

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

  3. Clutch, master and slave cylinders

    Clutch wear can start early, from about 40,000 miles. A pedal that goes down and does not come back points to the master or slave cylinder.

    Where to look
    The clutch pedal and the release bearing in the bellhousing
    How to test
    Feel for judder or slip, check the pedal returns every time, and listen for a noisy release bearing.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost clutch, flywheel and both cylinders together

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), evo.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  4. Exhaust splits and rust

    Exhausts split near the joins with the catalytic converters, and the joint between the front pipe and rear silencer rusts.

    Where to look
    The exhaust where it joins the cats, and the front pipe to rear silencer joint
    How to test
    Listen for blowing at idle and look underneath for rust at the joints.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost exhaust sections and cats are costly

    Sources: evo.co.uk (opens in a new tab), pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

  5. Rear driveshaft clicking

    Clicking from the rear axle is usually the driveshaft splines and is fixed by greasing and retorquing.

    Where to look
    The rear driveshaft joints at the hubs
    How to test
    Listen for clicks pulling away and on and off the throttle.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Low cost a short specialist job

    Sources: evo.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  6. Front compression arm bushes

    Knocking from the front suspension usually comes from the lower compression arm bushes.

    Where to look
    The front lower compression arms
    How to test
    Drive over speed bumps slowly and listen for knocks from the front.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost bushes and labour per side

    Sources: evo.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  7. Radiator fans (HR models)

    Radiator fans can stop working on the 313 hp HR models.

    Where to look
    The radiator fans behind the grille
    How to test
    Let the engine get hot at idle and listen for the fans switching on.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Low cost fan or relay

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

General guidance from owner and specialist sources. Check the specific car with an independent inspection. Researched 1 November 2026.

What the cost bands mean
  • Low: a small job. Typically a few hundred dollars or less at an NZ workshop, often a DIY fix.
  • Medium: a proper workshop job. Typically several hundred to a couple of thousand dollars.
  • High: a major job. Typically several thousand dollars or more, enough to change what the car is worth.

Service items

Questions to ask the seller

  • How much oil does it use between services?
  • Is it a DE or the later HR engine?
  • Has the clutch or slave cylinder been replaced?
  • Has the exhaust been replaced?
  • Has the gearbox ever crunched into 2nd?

New Zealand notes

  • Many NZ cars are Japanese import Fairlady Zs. Compare the export certificate odometer with the dash.

A 350Z suits a driver after an affordable, loud rear drive V6 coupe who will watch the oil level.

US recalls

Looking up US recall data.

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