REDLINE ALLEYNissan 240SX S13 (1988 to 1994): buying guide, problems and NZ numbers
The Nissan 240SX S13 was built from 1988 to 1994 as a coupe, hatchback or convertible, with a manual or automatic gearbox, rear wheel drive and petrol power. Chassis codes: S13 and RS13. Redline has a curated guide to its 8 most reported weak points, from owner club and specialist sources.
Key facts
- Years
- 1988 to 1994
- Chassis codes
- S13, RS13
- Body types
- Coupe, Hatchback, Convertible
- Gearboxes
- Manual, Automatic
- Drive
- RWD (rear wheel drive)
- Fuel
- Petrol
On NZ roads
Counting every one on the NZ register. The first look can take up to 15 seconds.
Known weak points
Curated by Redline from owner club and specialist sources Commonly reported by owners and specialists for the Nissan Silvia S13 and 180SX (1988 to 1998). Not every car has these; check this one.
CA18DET timing belt
The CA18DET uses a timing belt, and a snapped belt can cause serious engine damage.
- Where to look
- The timing belt cover at the front of the engine, and the service records
- How to test
- Ask for the invoice for the last belt change. If it is overdue, budget for a belt, tensioner, idler, water pump and thermostat straight away.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- High cost engine damage if the belt snaps
SR20DET timing chain
The SR20DET uses a chain that should last but can wear, along with its tensioner and guides. It depends on clean, regularly changed oil.
- Where to look
- The front of the engine at the timing cover
- How to test
- Listen for a rattle from the front of the engine, mainly on a cold start.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Medium cost chain, tensioner and guides
Turbo wear and oil smoke
Smoke of any kind, especially white, can mean the turbo is burning oil. Other signs are heavy oil use, slow acceleration and late boost.
- Where to look
- The turbo on the exhaust side of the engine, the exhaust and the intake pipes to the turbo
- How to test
- Watch the exhaust at start up and under boost on the drive, and feel for boost arriving late. Split intake pipes can mimic a tired turbo.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- High cost turbo replacement
Sources: garagedreams.net (opens in a new tab), retrorides.com.au (opens in a new tab)
Head gasket and overheating
Past overheating is called a big problem. Signs of a failed head gasket include milky oil, a frothy dipstick, bubbles in the overflow tank and a sweet exhaust smell.
- Where to look
- The dipstick, the oil filler cap and the coolant overflow tank
- How to test
- Check the oil and coolant before and after the drive. Ask for a compression test: the guide gives about 171 psi for the CA18 and 156 psi for the SR20, with no more than 14 psi between cylinders.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- High cost head gasket or head work
Oil leaks
Common leak points are the front crank seal, the oil pan gasket and the oil filter area.
- Where to look
- The front of the engine below the crank pulley, the sump edge and the oil filter
- How to test
- Look under the engine for wet oil before and after the drive. Oil being thrown out heavily is a reason to walk away.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Low cost seals and gaskets
Rust in wheel wells, rails and boot
Rust is reported in the rear wheel wells, frame rails, boot and round the original brake master cylinder. Replacement panels for early cars are scarce.
- Where to look
- The rear wheel wells, the frame rails underneath, the boot floor, and the area round the brake master cylinder on the bulkhead
- How to test
- Look in each area with a torch and press suspect spots. Walk away from serious rust.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- High cost rust repair with scarce panels
Sources: garagedreams.net (opens in a new tab), retrorides.com.au (opens in a new tab)
Clutch shudder and drivetrain
Clutch shudder from high rpm standing starts is reported. Clutches last roughly 65,000 km, and inner edge rear tyre wear points to incorrect alignment.
- Where to look
- The clutch pedal, and the inner edges of the rear tyres
- How to test
- Pull away gently from rest and feel for shudder. Check where the clutch bites and look at the rear tyres for inner edge wear.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Medium cost clutch replacement and an alignment
Sources: retrorides.com.au (opens in a new tab), garagedreams.net (opens in a new tab)
Air dam and body kit
Cracks in the air dam or body skirts and broken locating lugs are common.
- Where to look
- The front air dam, the side skirts and their mounting lugs
- How to test
- Look under the front and along each skirt for cracks and missing or broken lugs.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Low cost repair or used parts
General guidance from owner and specialist sources. Check the specific car with an independent inspection. Researched 3 November 2026.
What the cost bands mean
- Low: a small job. Typically a few hundred dollars or less at an NZ workshop, often a DIY fix.
- Medium: a proper workshop job. Typically several hundred to a couple of thousand dollars.
- High: a major job. Typically several thousand dollars or more, enough to change what the car is worth.
Service items
- CA18DET timing belt: Nissan recommends every 55,000 to 60,000 km or 5 to 6 years. Replace the tensioner, idler and water pump at the same time. (garagedreams.net (opens in a new tab))
- Engine oil and filter: every 5,000 to 8,000 km. The turbo and SR20 chain depend on clean oil. (garagedreams.net (opens in a new tab))
- Coolant: every 96,000 km (60,000 miles). Brown or muddy coolant suggests poor maintenance. (garagedreams.net (opens in a new tab))
- Manual gearbox fluid: every 40,000 km or 2 years. Helps the synchros. (garagedreams.net (opens in a new tab))
- Brake fluid: every 12 to 24 months. Old fluid absorbs water. (garagedreams.net (opens in a new tab))
Questions to ask the seller
- Is it the CA18DET or the SR20DET, and does the engine match the papers?
- If it is a CA18DET, when was the timing belt last changed?
- Has it ever overheated, and has a compression test been done?
- Has it been drifted or used on track?
- What modifications does it have, and is there an LVVTA plate for them?
New Zealand notes
- Most NZ S13 Silvias and 180SXs are Japanese imports, and engine swaps are common. Check the engine against the papers before agreeing a price.
- Modified cars need LVVTA certification for many changes; ask to see the plate.
An S13 suits a buyer after a light rear drive turbo coupe who is happy to find a straight, honest one among many modified cars.
US recalls
Looking up US recall data.
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