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Buying guide

Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV ZJ, ZK and ZL (2013 to 2021): buying guide, problems and NZ numbers

The Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV ZJ, ZK and ZL was built from 2013 to 2021 as an SUV, with an automatic gearbox, all wheel drive and hybrid power. Chassis codes: GG2W, GG3W, ZJ, ZK and ZL. Redline has a curated guide to its 8 most reported weak points, from owner club and specialist sources.

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Key facts

Years
2013 to 2021
Chassis codes
GG2W, GG3W, ZJ, ZK, ZL
Body types
SUV
Gearboxes
Automatic
Drive
AWD (all wheel drive)
Fuel
Hybrid

On NZ roads

Counting every one on the NZ register. The first look can take up to 15 seconds.

Known weak points

Curated by Redline from owner club and specialist sources Commonly reported by owners and specialists for the Mitsubishi Outlander ZJ to ZL (including PHEV) (2012 to 2021). Not every car has these; check this one.

  1. CVT delayed engagement (petrol)

    Petrol models with the CVT can be slow to engage, which an Australian inspection service calls a manufacturing fault.

    Where to look
    The CVT, felt from the driver seat
    How to test
    Select Drive and Reverse from cold and time the engagement. Test in slow traffic and on the open road for lag.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost CVT repair

    Sources: carsales.com.au (opens in a new tab)

  2. PHEV traction battery

    Some owners report the displayed electric range dropping over time, and a replacement battery is very expensive, though single cells can be replaced for much less.

    Where to look
    The EV range shown at full charge, and a dealer battery health check
    How to test
    Charge it to full and compare the EV range shown with what it should be. Ask for a Mitsubishi battery health report.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost battery cells or a new pack

    Sources: carsales.com.au (opens in a new tab), whatcar.com (opens in a new tab)

  3. PHEV charge port flap and cables

    The charging socket flap is known to fail or bend so it will not close, and replacement cables are costly.

    Where to look
    The flap over the charging sockets, and the charging cable in the boot
    How to test
    Open and close the flap and check the latches hold. Check the charging cable is there and plug in to confirm charging starts.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Low cost a flap or a cable

    Sources: carwow.co.uk (opens in a new tab), whatcar.com (opens in a new tab)

  4. Oil and coolant leaks

    Oil leaks from the oil cooler seals or cam cover gasket, and coolant leaks from the water pump or radiator, are common faults found by an Australian inspection service.

    Where to look
    The oil cooler seals, the cam cover gasket, the water pump and the radiator
    How to test
    Look round the engine for wet oil and coolant crust, and check for stains in the engine bay.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost seals, gaskets or a water pump

    Sources: carsales.com.au (opens in a new tab)

  5. Recalls

    Recalls covered an ECU relay that can overheat and stall the engine (built December 2014 to March 2016), door latches that can fail in hot weather (May 2015 to March 2016), parking brake caliper boots that let in water, and emergency braking software (2016 to 2018).

    Where to look
    The recall record for the VIN
    How to test
    Ask a Mitsubishi dealer to check the VIN and confirm every recall is done.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Low cost recall work is free at a Mitsubishi dealer

    Sources: whatcar.com (opens in a new tab), carwow.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  6. Underbody damage

    The long nose, sills, exhaust and rear diff are easy to damage, and the underbody needs a check before even test driving.

    Where to look
    Under the front nose, the sills, the exhaust and the rear differential
    How to test
    Look underneath with a torch for scrapes, a flattened exhaust and impact damage on the rear diff.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost depends on what is damaged

    Sources: carsales.com.au (opens in a new tab)

  7. Suspension and brakes

    Worn bushes, ball joints and struts, and early brake pad wear, are reported.

    Where to look
    The suspension bushes, ball joints and struts, the tyres and the brake pads
    How to test
    Listen for knocks and squeals on the drive, and look for uneven tyre wear.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost bushes, joints and pads

    Sources: carsales.com.au (opens in a new tab)

  8. 4WD system noises and towing

    Unusual noises from the 4WD system, especially after towing, and refusal to move off on a steep hill near the towing limit are reported.

    Where to look
    The 4WD system and the towbar
    How to test
    Listen for clunks or whine from the drivetrain and ask what it has towed.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost drivetrain repairs

    Sources: whatcar.com (opens in a new tab), carsales.com.au (opens in a new tab)

General guidance from owner and specialist sources. Check the specific car with an independent inspection. Researched 4 November 2026.

What the cost bands mean
  • Low: a small job. Typically a few hundred dollars or less at an NZ workshop, often a DIY fix.
  • Medium: a proper workshop job. Typically several hundred to a couple of thousand dollars.
  • High: a major job. Typically several thousand dollars or more, enough to change what the car is worth.

Questions to ask the seller

  • Is it the 2.0 or 2.4 petrol, the 2.2 diesel or the PHEV?
  • On a PHEV, what EV range does it show at full charge, and is there a battery health report?
  • Have all recalls been done, including the ECU relay and door latches?
  • Has it towed, and how heavy?
  • Is it the 5 or 7 seat version?

US recalls

Looking up US recall data.

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