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Buying guide

Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution Evo VII, VIII and IX (2001 to 2007): buying guide, problems and NZ numbers

The Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution Evo VII, VIII and IX was built from 2001 to 2007 as a sedan or wagon, with a manual or automatic gearbox, all wheel drive and petrol power. Chassis codes: CT9A and CT9W. Redline has a curated guide to its 7 most reported weak points, from owner club and specialist sources.

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Key facts

Years
2001 to 2007
Chassis codes
CT9A, CT9W
Body types
Sedan, Wagon
Gearboxes
Manual, Automatic
Drive
AWD (all wheel drive)
Fuel
Petrol

On NZ roads

Counting every one on the NZ register. The first look can take up to 15 seconds.

Known weak points

Curated by Redline from owner club and specialist sources Commonly reported by owners and specialists for the Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VII to IX (2001 to 2007). Not every car has these; check this one.

  1. AYC pump

    With all three ACD mode lights on, the AYC pump is not making enough pressure. The pump sits in the left rear corner of the car and leaks fluid. A squawk on turns can be wear particles in the clutch plates.

    Where to look
    The ACD mode lights on the dash, and the AYC pump in the left rear corner of the boot area
    How to test
    Check all warning lights go out after start up. Turn tightly both ways and listen for a squawk or groan from the rear.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost AYC pump rebuild

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), cdn1.evo.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  2. Rear chassis legs

    Rear chassis legs need to be solid; putting them right costs a lot.

    Where to look
    The rear chassis legs under the boot floor
    How to test
    Look underneath with a torch for rust, flaking metal and fresh underseal.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost structural welding

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

  3. Boot lid and water traps

    Corrosion is reported under the boot lid where the spoiler bolts pass through and on the lower seam. Water collects in the spare wheel well.

    Where to look
    The underside of the boot lid round the spoiler bolts, the lower seam, the spare wheel well and the door drain holes
    How to test
    Lift the boot floor and check for water. Look at the spoiler bolt holes underneath the lid.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost paint and panel work

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

  4. Head gaskets and cooling

    Age is bringing head gasket and cooling issues, and remapped or high boost engines can damage head gaskets and pistons.

    Where to look
    The coolant reservoir and the exhaust
    How to test
    Watch for blue smoke and for steam once fully warm.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost head gasket or engine work

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), cdn1.evo.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  5. Clutch, flywheel and 6 speed 4th gear

    Launching wears the clutch badly, and the 6 speed can develop 4th gear problems on tuned, hard driven cars.

    Where to look
    The clutch pedal and gear lever
    How to test
    Feel for judder before any slip. From cold 1st to 2nd is baulky, which is normal; once warm there should be no crunch or whine.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost clutch and flywheel need gearbox and transfer box off

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), cdn1.evo.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  6. Front strut top mounts

    Dried out front strut top mounts knock on turning.

    Where to look
    The front strut tops under the bonnet
    How to test
    Turn the wheel at low speed and listen for a knock from the top of the struts.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Low cost a set of top mounts

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

  7. Water leaks and heater matrix

    Splash guard faults let water into the passenger footwell, and the heater matrix can leak.

    Where to look
    The passenger footwell carpet and the scuttle panel under the wipers
    How to test
    Feel the passenger carpet for damp. Wipers or lights staying on without the key can point to water in the wiring.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost heater matrix needs the dash out

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

General guidance from owner and specialist sources. Check the specific car with an independent inspection. Researched 1 November 2026.

What the cost bands mean
  • Low: a small job. Typically a few hundred dollars or less at an NZ workshop, often a DIY fix.
  • Medium: a proper workshop job. Typically several hundred to a couple of thousand dollars.
  • High: a major job. Typically several thousand dollars or more, enough to change what the car is worth.

Service items

Questions to ask the seller

  • When were the cambelt and balance shaft belt last done?
  • Has the AYC pump been rebuilt or serviced?
  • Has it been remapped, and what boost does it run?
  • Has the clutch and flywheel been replaced?
  • Has the car had rust repairs underneath?

New Zealand notes

  • NZ has Japanese import and NZ new Evos. Japanese RS and GT models can lack the factory underseal, so check underneath harder.

An Evo VII to IX suits a driver who wants the sharpest 4G63 Evo and will budget for AYC and drivetrain servicing.

US recalls

Looking up US recall data.

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