Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution X Evo (2007 to 2016): buying guide, problems and NZ numbers
The Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution X Evo was built from 2007 to 2016 as a sedan, with a manual or dual clutch gearbox, all wheel drive and petrol power. Chassis code: CZ4A. Redline has a curated guide to its 6 most reported weak points, from owner club and specialist sources.
Key facts
- Years
- 2007 to 2016
- Chassis codes
- CZ4A
- Body types
- Sedan
- Gearboxes
- Manual, Dual clutch
- Drive
- AWD (all wheel drive)
- Fuel
- Petrol
On NZ roads
Counting every one on the NZ register. The first look can take up to 15 seconds.
Known weak points
Curated by Redline from owner club and specialist sources Commonly reported by owners and specialists for the Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution X (2007 to 2016). Not every car has these; check this one.
TC-SST dual clutch gearbox
Premature clutch wear in the SST shows as excessive slipping when cold, and can mean a replacement gearbox even at low km.
- Where to look
- The SST gearbox, and its service records
- How to test
- From cold, pull away gently and feel for slip or a rising engine note without the car picking up.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- High cost a replacement gearbox
Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)
5 speed manual selector fork
Even gears and reverse can disappear, usually from the plastic magnet on the centre selector fork arm. The clutch master cylinder also has a poor reputation.
- Where to look
- The gear lever and the clutch pedal
- How to test
- Select 2nd, 4th and reverse several times and check they engage every time.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Medium cost an upgraded selector part and labour
Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)
ACD and AYC pump corrosion
The ACD and AYC pump sits in a more exposed spot than on earlier Evos and can fail from corrosion of its housing and gasket. Handling may not change much when it fails.
- Where to look
- The pump under the car, and the warning lights
- How to test
- Check the warning lights after start up and ask for pump and fluid records.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- High cost refurbished or new pump
Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)
Fuel pump relay and vacuum hose
Non upgraded fuel pump relays can make the engine run lean, and the clip free vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator is known for popping off.
- Where to look
- The fuel pressure regulator hose in the engine bay and the relay box
- How to test
- Check the hose is secured and ask whether the relay has been upgraded.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Low cost a relay and a cable tie
Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)
Timing chain and exhaust manifold
Timing chain stretch could be an issue, and poorly cast exhaust manifolds can crack.
- Where to look
- The front of the engine and the exhaust manifold
- How to test
- Listen for a rattle from the front of the engine on a cold start and for a ticking exhaust leak.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Medium cost chain or manifold replacement
Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)
Paint and rustproofing
Paint quality and rustproofing were not brilliant. Rear door corners and side skirts suffer stone damage.
- Where to look
- The rear door corners, side skirts and underbody
- How to test
- Look for chips and rust starting along the side skirts and door bottoms.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Medium cost paint and rust repairs
Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)
General guidance from owner and specialist sources. Check the specific car with an independent inspection. Researched 1 November 2026.
What the cost bands mean
- Low: a small job. Typically a few hundred dollars or less at an NZ workshop, often a DIY fix.
- Medium: a proper workshop job. Typically several hundred to a couple of thousand dollars.
- High: a major job. Typically several thousand dollars or more, enough to change what the car is worth.
Service items
- Engine oil: every 10,000 miles (about 16,000 km) after the first service. Regular oil changes help the timing chain. (pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab))
- ACD gear oil and AYC fluid: every 30,000 miles (about 48,000 km), or 15,000 miles with heavy use. Protects the pump and diffs. (pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab))
Questions to ask the seller
- Is it the SST or the 5 speed manual?
- Has the SST clutch pack or gearbox been replaced?
- Has the ACD and AYC pump been replaced, and when were the fluids done?
- Are the factory software updates done?
- What modifications does it have?
New Zealand notes
- NZ has NZ new and Japanese import Evo X models. Check which gearbox and spec it has against the paperwork.
An Evo X suits a buyer who wants a modern AWD turbo sedan and will check the gearbox and pump history first.
US recalls
Looking up US recall data.
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