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Buying guide

Mercedes-Benz C63 AMG W204 (2008 to 2014): buying guide, problems and NZ numbers

The Mercedes-Benz C63 AMG W204 was built from 2008 to 2014 as a sedan, wagon or coupe, with an automatic gearbox, rear wheel drive and petrol power. Chassis codes: W204, S204 and C204. Redline has a curated guide to its 8 most reported weak points, from owner club and specialist sources.

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Key facts

Years
2008 to 2014
Chassis codes
W204, S204, C204
Body types
Sedan, Wagon, Coupe
Gearboxes
Automatic
Drive
RWD (rear wheel drive)
Fuel
Petrol

On NZ roads

Counting every one on the NZ register. The first look can take up to 15 seconds.

Known weak points

Curated by Redline from owner club and specialist sources Commonly reported by owners and specialists for the Mercedes Benz C-Class W204 (2007 to 2014). Not every car has these; check this one.

  1. Six cylinder petrol timing chain stretch

    Six cylinder petrol engines were prone to premature timing chain stretch, and low km does not rule it out.

    Where to look
    The front of the V6 engine, and the timing chain records
    How to test
    Listen for a rattle on a cold start and ask whether the chain has been replaced. A fault code scan can show cam timing deviation.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost an expensive chain job

    Sources: parkers.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  2. Diesel injectors and main bearings

    Early injector problems were supposedly fixed, but the oldest cars may need injector work again. A ticking at idle on the larger diesels can mean main bearing damage.

    Where to look
    The injectors and their seals on top of the diesel engine
    How to test
    Look for black tar or wet fuel round the injectors and listen for ticking at idle. Walk away from a ticking big diesel.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost injectors, or engine work for bearings

    Sources: parkers.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  3. 7G-Tronic automatic

    Harsh or jerky gear changes, mainly on post facelift cars, can point to a valve body problem that costs thousands to fix.

    Where to look
    The 7 speed automatic, felt from the driver seat
    How to test
    Drive through all the gears, especially pulling away and slowing to a stop, and feel for harsh or jerky shifts.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost valve body or gearbox repair

    Sources: parkers.co.uk (opens in a new tab), teamspeed.com (opens in a new tab)

  4. Electronic key and steering column lock

    The steering column lock may not release and the key may not be recognised, which is a common and expensive repair.

    Where to look
    The ignition slot and steering column
    How to test
    Insert and remove the key a few times and listen for the column lock click. Check the ignition warning lights come on.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost steering lock and key electronics

    Sources: parkers.co.uk (opens in a new tab), teamspeed.com (opens in a new tab)

  5. Power steering leaks

    Power steering leaks are most common on pre facelift cars.

    Where to look
    The power steering pump, hoses and rack
    How to test
    Turn the wheel lock to lock and listen for groaning, and feel for uneven or stiff steering. Look for fluid on the hoses.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost hoses or a rack

    Sources: parkers.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  6. Headlamp moisture and electrics

    Moisture gets into the xenon headlights and the indicator control module, and rear lamps suffer earth faults.

    Where to look
    The headlamp units and rear lamps
    How to test
    Check every light works, ideally at dusk, and look for misting inside the headlamps.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost xenon parts or a module

    Sources: parkers.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  7. Rear subframe and boot corrosion

    The rear subframe is prone to corrosion, and oxidation round the boot becomes more common with age.

    Where to look
    The rear subframe and the boot lid and floor
    How to test
    Look underneath at the rear subframe with a torch and check round the boot seals and floor for rust.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost subframe repair or replacement

    Sources: parkers.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  8. Engine mounts and control arm bushes

    Failing engine or gearbox mounts cause harshness, and worn control arm bushes knock or clunk when pulling away.

    Where to look
    The engine and gearbox mounts, and the front control arm bushes
    How to test
    Feel for harshness at idle in Drive and listen for knocks as you pull away and over bumps.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost mounts and bushes

    Sources: teamspeed.com (opens in a new tab), parkers.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

General guidance from owner and specialist sources. Check the specific car with an independent inspection. Researched 4 November 2026.

What the cost bands mean
  • Low: a small job. Typically a few hundred dollars or less at an NZ workshop, often a DIY fix.
  • Medium: a proper workshop job. Typically several hundred to a couple of thousand dollars.
  • High: a major job. Typically several thousand dollars or more, enough to change what the car is worth.

Questions to ask the seller

  • Which engine is it: C180 or C200 four cylinder, a V6 petrol or a diesel?
  • Has the timing chain been replaced on a V6 petrol?
  • Has the automatic gearbox ever been serviced or repaired?
  • Has the steering lock or key ever failed?
  • Is it pre or post facelift?

US recalls

Looking up US recall data.

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