Mazda Roadster NA (1989 to 1997): buying guide, problems and NZ numbers
The Mazda Roadster NA was built from 1989 to 1997 as a convertible, with a manual or automatic gearbox, rear wheel drive and petrol power. Chassis codes: NA6C, NA8C and NA6CE. Redline has a curated guide to its 8 most reported weak points, from owner club and specialist sources.
Key facts
- Years
- 1989 to 1997
- Chassis codes
- NA6C, NA8C, NA6CE
- Body types
- Convertible
- Gearboxes
- Manual, Automatic
- Drive
- RWD (rear wheel drive)
- Fuel
- Petrol
On NZ roads
Counting every one on the NZ register. The first look can take up to 15 seconds.
Known weak points
Curated by Redline from owner club and specialist sources Commonly reported by owners and specialists for the Mazda MX-5 NA (1989 to 1997). Not every car has these; check this one.
Rear sills and rear wheel arches
Rust in the rear sills and where the sills meet the rear wings is the most reported NA problem. It starts on the inside and works out, so bubbling paint usually means more rot underneath.
- Where to look
- The back end of each sill just ahead of the rear wheel, the lower rear wing where it joins the sill, and the inner and outer rear arch lips
- How to test
- Press the sill end and arch lip with a thumb and use a magnet to find filler. Look inside the arch with a torch. Treat fresh underseal with caution unless there are photos of what was repaired under it.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- High cost cutting out and welding in new metal, then paint
Sources: insurance.goodwood.com (opens in a new tab), evo.co.uk (opens in a new tab)
Hood drain tubes and damp floors
Blocked hood drains are a common cause of rear sill rot and wet carpets.
- Where to look
- The drain holes behind the seats at the base of the hood, the carpet behind the seats and the floor pans
- How to test
- Feel under the carpet for damp and smell for mould. Pour a little water into the drain channel and check it runs out under the car. Gunge or a rush of trapped water means the drains have been neglected.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Low cost clearing the drains is free; a rotten sill or floor is not
Sources: insurance.goodwood.com (opens in a new tab), pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)
Front chassis rails, wishbones and crossmember
Owners and specialists report corrosion and poor repairs around the front chassis rails, jacking points and suspension mounts, and corroded front wishbones.
- Where to look
- Under the front of the car: the chassis rails, the jacking points, the front crossmember and the lower wishbones
- How to test
- Look underneath with a torch for flaking metal, crushed or bent jacking points and patch repairs. Rust here needs a hoist inspection before you go further.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- High cost structural welding, or new wishbones and an alignment
Sources: insurance.goodwood.com (opens in a new tab), pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)
Short nose crankshaft (early 1.6)
On early 1.6 engines the bottom pulley can work loose and chew the end of the crank and its keyway, which upsets the timing and can wreck the engine.
- Where to look
- The crankshaft pulley at the bottom front of the engine, and the build date of the car
- How to test
- Ask whether it is an early short nose engine and when the cambelt was last fitted and by whom. Watch the bottom pulley at idle for any wobble.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- High cost a new crankshaft or a replacement engine
Sources: evo.co.uk (opens in a new tab), pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)
Cam angle sensor and cam cover oil leaks
Oil leaks from the cam angle sensor seal at the back of the cam cover are common. On the 1.8 a leak there can rot the heater hose.
- Where to look
- The back of the cam cover where the cam angle sensor sits, the cam cover gasket edge and the heater hose below it
- How to test
- Look for wet oil and dust caked on the back of the head and a soft or oily heater hose.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Low cost cheap seals and a short job
Sources: evo.co.uk (opens in a new tab), insurance.goodwood.com (opens in a new tab)
Clutch slave cylinder and gear lever boots
The clutch slave cylinder often fails, and the rubber boots under the gear lever split with age. The lower boot seals the oil for the gear linkage.
- Where to look
- The clutch fluid in the reservoir on the bulkhead, and the boots under the gear lever surround
- How to test
- A low biting point or trouble selecting gears points to the slave cylinder. Black clutch fluid suggests it is close to failing. Ask whether the lever boots have been replaced.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Low cost cheap parts and an easy fix
Sources: evo.co.uk (opens in a new tab), pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)
Viscous limited slip differential (some Eunos)
The viscous LSD fitted to some Japanese Eunos Roadsters has often worn out and now behaves like an open diff.
- Where to look
- The rear differential, and the spec of the car on its export papers
- How to test
- With the rear of the car on stands and the handbrake off, turn one rear wheel. If the other turns the same way, the LSD still works.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Medium cost a used or Torsen diff and fitting
Rear brake calipers
Rear calipers seize, especially on cars left standing with the handbrake on.
- Where to look
- The rear calipers and the handbrake mechanism on each rear wheel
- How to test
- On the test drive feel for the car pulling or dragging, and after the drive check whether one rear wheel is much hotter than the other.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Low cost replacement calipers are cheap and easy to fit
Sources: insurance.goodwood.com (opens in a new tab), pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)
General guidance from owner and specialist sources. Check the specific car with an independent inspection. Researched 1 November 2026.
What the cost bands mean
- Low: a small job. Typically a few hundred dollars or less at an NZ workshop, often a DIY fix.
- Medium: a proper workshop job. Typically several hundred to a couple of thousand dollars.
- High: a major job. Typically several thousand dollars or more, enough to change what the car is worth.
Service items
- Cambelt and water pump: about 100,000 km (62,000 miles) on the UK schedule. A failed belt can damage the engine; budget for it if there is no invoice. (evo.co.uk (opens in a new tab))
- Engine oil and filter: every 10,000 km on the Japanese Eunos schedule. The hydraulic tappets need clean oil. (evo.co.uk (opens in a new tab))
- Hood drains, rust proofing and lubrication: every year. Clears the drains and tops up the wax in the sills. (evo.co.uk (opens in a new tab))
- Wheel alignment: after any suspension or bush work. Camber, caster and toe are all adjustable and set the handling. (insurance.goodwood.com (opens in a new tab))
Questions to ask the seller
- Is it an early 1.6 with the short nose crank, a later 1.6, or a 1.8?
- When were the cambelt and water pump last done, and is there an invoice?
- Have the hood drains been cleared, and has the carpet ever been wet?
- Has any rust repair or welding been done on the sills or arches, and are there photos?
- Is it a Japanese Eunos Roadster, and does it have the LSD?
New Zealand notes
- Many NZ cars are Japanese import Eunos Roadsters. Compare the odometer on the export certificate with the dash.
- Japanese Eunos Roadsters follow a 10,000 km service schedule, so ask for records that match it.
An NA suits a driver who wants a light, simple sports car and is prepared to keep on top of rust.
US recalls
Looking up US recall data.
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