Mazda Mazda6 GJ and GL (2012 to 2024): buying guide, problems and NZ numbers
The Mazda Mazda6 GJ and GL was built from 2012 to 2024 as a sedan or wagon, with a manual or automatic gearbox, front wheel drive or all wheel drive and petrol or diesel power. Chassis codes: GJ2FP, GJEFP, GJ5FW and GJ2AW. Redline has a curated guide to its 8 most reported weak points, from owner club and specialist sources.
Key facts
- Years
- 2012 to 2024
- Chassis codes
- GJ2FP, GJEFP, GJ5FW, GJ2AW
- Body types
- Sedan, Wagon
- Gearboxes
- Manual, Automatic
- Drive
- FWD (front wheel drive), AWD (all wheel drive)
- Fuel
- Petrol, Diesel
On NZ roads
Counting every one on the NZ register. The first look can take up to 15 seconds.
Known weak points
Curated by Redline from owner club and specialist sources Commonly reported by owners and specialists for the Mazda6 and Atenza GJ (2012 to 2024). Not every car has these; check this one.
2.2 diesel engine
An Australian used review advises avoiding the diesel, citing turbo and wastegate failures, injector seal leaks that leave carbon which can block the oil strainer, and coked inlets and EGR.
- Where to look
- The 2.2 diesel engine, the injector seals on top and the oil pressure warning
- How to test
- Listen for a puffing noise from the injectors and watch for the oil pressure light. Ask for injector seal and turbo invoices.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- High cost turbo or engine repairs
Sources: redriven.com (opens in a new tab)
Diesel DPF and oil dilution
Shutting the engine off during a DPF clean can put fuel in the oil, so the oil level rises over time, and the diesel needs regular motorway runs.
- Where to look
- The dipstick on the 2.2 diesel
- How to test
- Check the oil level is not above the full mark and does not smell of diesel. Ask how the car has been used.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- High cost engine damage if ignored
Sources: whatcar.com (opens in a new tab), redriven.com (opens in a new tab)
Petrol inlet carbon
The direct injection petrol engines build carbon on the inlet tracks and need periodic cleaning.
- Where to look
- The inlet ports of the 2.0 and 2.5 petrol engines, and service records
- How to test
- Ask whether the inlets have been cleaned. Feel for a rough idle or hesitation.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Medium cost walnut blasting or chemical cleaning
Sources: redriven.com (opens in a new tab)
Engine mounts
Hydraulic engine mounts can lose their fluid and let vibration through the car.
- Where to look
- The engine mounts in the engine bay
- How to test
- Look for fluid leaks at the mounts and feel for vibration at idle in drive and under load.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Medium cost new mounts and labour
Sources: redriven.com (opens in a new tab)
Brake discs
The 6 is quite hard on its brake discs, which can cause vibration when braking.
- Where to look
- The front brake discs behind the wheels
- How to test
- Feel for vibration through the wheel and pedal when braking from speed.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Medium cost discs and pads
Sources: whatcar.com (opens in a new tab)
Boot struts recall
Boot struts are known to fail, and Mazda ran a recall in early 2017.
- Where to look
- The boot lid struts, and the recall record for the VIN
- How to test
- Open the boot and check it stays up. Ask a Mazda dealer whether the recall was done.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Low cost recall work is free at a Mazda dealer
Sources: whatcar.com (opens in a new tab)
Driver airbag inflator recall
A recall covers driver airbag inflators that may rupture after long exposure to high humidity.
- Where to look
- The recall record for the VIN
- How to test
- Ask a Mazda dealer to confirm the airbag inflator recall has been done.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Low cost recall work is free at a Mazda dealer
Sources: whatcar.com (opens in a new tab)
Stop start battery and electronics
Battery management warnings with the stop start system are reported, along with sporadic Bose amplifier faults and frozen infotainment screens.
- Where to look
- The stop start warning on the dash, the Bose speakers and the infotainment screen
- How to test
- Let the car stop and start at lights and watch for warnings. Play audio through every speaker and work through the screen menus.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Low cost a battery, update or amplifier
Sources: redriven.com (opens in a new tab)
General guidance from owner and specialist sources. Check the specific car with an independent inspection. Researched 4 November 2026.
What the cost bands mean
- Low: a small job. Typically a few hundred dollars or less at an NZ workshop, often a DIY fix.
- Medium: a proper workshop job. Typically several hundred to a couple of thousand dollars.
- High: a major job. Typically several thousand dollars or more, enough to change what the car is worth.
Questions to ask the seller
- Is it the 2.0, 2.5 or 2.2 diesel?
- On a diesel, have the injector seals or turbo been replaced?
- Have the boot strut and airbag recalls been done?
- Has it mostly done short trips or open road running?
- Have the inlets ever been cleaned?
US recalls
Looking up US recall data.
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