Mazda Mazda3 BL (2009 to 2013): buying guide, problems and NZ numbers
The Mazda Mazda3 BL was built from 2009 to 2013 as a sedan or hatchback, with a manual or automatic gearbox, front wheel drive and petrol or diesel power. Chassis codes: BL5FP, BLEFP and BL3FW. Redline has a curated guide to its 8 most reported weak points, from owner club and specialist sources.
Key facts
- Years
- 2009 to 2013
- Chassis codes
- BL5FP, BLEFP, BL3FW
- Body types
- Sedan, Hatchback
- Gearboxes
- Manual, Automatic
- Drive
- FWD (front wheel drive)
- Fuel
- Petrol, Diesel
On NZ roads
Counting every one on the NZ register. The first look can take up to 15 seconds.
Known weak points
Curated by Redline from owner club and specialist sources Commonly reported by owners and specialists for the Mazda3 and Axela BL (2009 to 2013). Not every car has these; check this one.
2.0 oil use and bore wear
Early 2.0 petrol engines may burn oil or show bore wear, or have a blocked crankcase breather.
- Where to look
- The oil filler cap on top of the engine, and the dipstick
- How to test
- With the engine warm and idling, loosen the oil cap and rest it over the hole. If it rattles, bounces or smoke comes out, ask for a crankcase pressure test. Check the oil level too.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- High cost engine work if the bores are worn
Sources: parkers.co.uk (opens in a new tab)
Intake manifold shutter
The shutter inside the plastic variable length intake manifold on the 1.6 and 2.0 petrol can stick or rattle, causing cold misfires and a lumpy idle.
- Where to look
- The plastic intake manifold on the front of the engine
- How to test
- Start from cold and feel for a lumpy idle or misfire, and listen for a rattle from the manifold. Ask for a fault code scan.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Medium cost a new manifold
Sources: parkers.co.uk (opens in a new tab)
Front suspension bushes and engine mounts
Thumps and rattles from the front end, sometimes from just 40,000 km, come from worn suspension bushes or early engine mount failure.
- Where to look
- The front lower arm bushes and the engine mounts
- How to test
- Drive over speed bumps and rough road and listen for thumps from the front. Watch the engine rock as you shift between drive and reverse.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Medium cost bushes or mounts and labour
Sources: carsales.com.au (opens in a new tab)
Rear multi link bushes and front ball joints
Worn rear multi link bushes cause a twitchy feel, misalignment and clonks over speed bumps, and front ball joints occasionally fail.
- Where to look
- The rear suspension arms, the inside edges of the tyres, and the steering knuckle below each front strut
- How to test
- Look at the inside edges of all 4 tyres for uneven wear. Listen for clonks over speed bumps and rattles from the anti roll bar.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Medium cost bushes, arms and an alignment
Sources: parkers.co.uk (opens in a new tab)
Brakes and ABS
Sticking calipers are common, the discs can squeal and pulse under light braking, and ABS pumps are expensive to replace.
- Where to look
- The calipers and discs behind each wheel, the brake pipes and hoses, and the ABS light on the dash
- How to test
- Check the ABS light comes on and goes out at start up. After the drive, carefully feel each wheel centre for one much hotter than the others, and feel for pulsing through the pedal.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Medium cost calipers and discs; an ABS pump costs more
Sources: parkers.co.uk (opens in a new tab), carsales.com.au (opens in a new tab)
Underbody rust
Mazda rust proofing of this era is weak, so underbody corrosion is worth checking.
- Where to look
- The underbody, brake pipes, sills and rear subframe
- How to test
- Look underneath with a torch for flaking metal and rusty brake pipes.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Medium cost rust repair and new pipes
Sources: parkers.co.uk (opens in a new tab)
Bumpers, clips and underside
The long nose and the rear bumper get damaged by parking, bumper clips break, and sills and exhausts get crushed on speed bumps.
- Where to look
- The front and rear bumpers and their clips, the sills and the exhaust under the centre of the car
- How to test
- Check the bumpers sit square with even gaps and the clips hold. Look under the middle of the car for crushed sills and a dented exhaust.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Medium cost bumper repairs and paint
Sources: carsales.com.au (opens in a new tab)
Hatch strut recall
Poorly painted hatch struts on the hatchback had to be replaced because corrosion could make them fail.
- Where to look
- The 2 gas struts that hold up the hatch, and the recall record for the VIN
- How to test
- Open the hatch and check it stays up on its own. Ask a Mazda dealer to confirm the recall work is done.
- Cost if it needs fixing
- Low cost recall work is free at a Mazda dealer
Sources: carsales.com.au (opens in a new tab)
General guidance from owner and specialist sources. Check the specific car with an independent inspection. Researched 4 November 2026.
What the cost bands mean
- Low: a small job. Typically a few hundred dollars or less at an NZ workshop, often a DIY fix.
- Medium: a proper workshop job. Typically several hundred to a couple of thousand dollars.
- High: a major job. Typically several thousand dollars or more, enough to change what the car is worth.
Service items
- Service: every 10,000 km or 12 months. The interval Trade Me gives for the NZ 2.0. (trademe.co.nz (opens in a new tab))
Questions to ask the seller
- Is it the 2.0 or 2.5, and manual or auto?
- Has the hatch strut recall been done?
- Have the front bushes or engine mounts been replaced?
- Does it use oil between services?
- Is it NZ new or a Japanese import Axela?
New Zealand notes
- NZ has both NZ new Mazda3s and Japanese import Axelas. Compare the odometer on the export certificate with the dash on imports.
A BL suits a buyer who wants an affordable hatch or sedan that is nice to drive, and checks the front suspension and brakes.
US recalls
Looking up US recall data.
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