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Buying guide

Honda Integra Type R DC2 and DB8 (1995 to 2001): buying guide, problems and NZ numbers

The Honda Integra Type R DC2 and DB8 was built from 1995 to 2001 as a coupe or sedan, with a manual gearbox, front wheel drive and petrol power. Chassis codes: DC2 and DB8. Redline has a curated guide to its 6 most reported weak points, from owner club and specialist sources.

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Key facts

Years
1995 to 2001
Chassis codes
DC2, DB8
Body types
Coupe, Sedan
Gearboxes
Manual
Drive
FWD (front wheel drive)
Fuel
Petrol

On NZ roads

Counting every one on the NZ register. The first look can take up to 15 seconds.

Known weak points

Curated by Redline from owner club and specialist sources Commonly reported by owners and specialists for the Honda Integra Type R DC2 (1995 to 2001). Not every car has these; check this one.

  1. Rear wheel arch rust

    Rust in the rear wheel arches is common.

    Where to look
    The rear wheel arch lips, including behind the rubber seal on the inner arch
    How to test
    Run a finger round the arch lips and look behind the inner seal with a torch.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost arch repairs and paint

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

  2. B18C oil use

    The engine burns some oil even with gentle use.

    Where to look
    The dipstick
    How to test
    Check the level and ask how often it is topped up.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost engine wear

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

  3. 2nd and 3rd gear synchros

    Track use wears the 2nd and 3rd synchros.

    Where to look
    The gear lever
    How to test
    Change quickly into 2nd and 3rd and listen for grinding. The change should be quick and precise with no slop.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost gearbox rebuild

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

  4. Clutch and slave cylinder

    Hard launches and track use wear the clutch, and the slave cylinder can weep fluid.

    Where to look
    The clutch pedal and the slave cylinder on the gearbox
    How to test
    Feel for slip and look for fluid at the slave cylinder.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost clutch replacement

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

  5. Accident damage and track use

    Many cars have been tracked or slid off the road. Brake judder points to track use.

    Where to look
    The panels, shut lines and the brakes
    How to test
    Look for overspray and uneven gaps, and feel for judder under braking.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost poor repairs are costly to fix

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

  6. Boot leaks and thin windscreen

    Rear light seals can leak into the boot, and the thin windscreen cracks more easily.

    Where to look
    The boot floor and the windscreen
    How to test
    Feel the boot floor for damp and check the screen for chips and cracks.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Low cost seals or a screen

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

General guidance from owner and specialist sources. Check the specific car with an independent inspection. Researched 1 November 2026.

What the cost bands mean
  • Low: a small job. Typically a few hundred dollars or less at an NZ workshop, often a DIY fix.
  • Medium: a proper workshop job. Typically several hundred to a couple of thousand dollars.
  • High: a major job. Typically several thousand dollars or more, enough to change what the car is worth.

Service items

Questions to ask the seller

  • When were the cambelt and plugs last done?
  • Has it been tracked?
  • Is it a Japanese import, and which year is it?
  • Has any rust repair been done to the rear arches?

New Zealand notes

  • Most NZ DC2s are Japanese imports; pre 1998 Japanese cars have single unit headlights. Compare the export certificate odometer with the dash.

A DC2 suits a driver who wants one of the best front drive cars made and will check for track abuse.

US recalls

Looking up US recall data.

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