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Buying guide

Honda CR-V 3rd gen (2006 to 2011): buying guide, problems and NZ numbers

The Honda CR-V 3rd gen was built from 2006 to 2011 as an SUV, with a manual or automatic gearbox, front wheel drive or all wheel drive and petrol or diesel power. Chassis codes: RE3, RE4 and RE5. Redline has a curated guide to its 8 most reported weak points, from owner club and specialist sources.

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Key facts

Years
2006 to 2011
Chassis codes
RE3, RE4, RE5
Body types
SUV
Gearboxes
Manual, Automatic
Drive
FWD (front wheel drive), AWD (all wheel drive)
Fuel
Petrol, Diesel

On NZ roads

Counting every one on the NZ register. The first look can take up to 15 seconds.

Known weak points

Curated by Redline from owner club and specialist sources Commonly reported by owners and specialists for the Honda CR-V RE (2006 to 2012). Not every car has these; check this one.

  1. Rear differential (AWD)

    The rear differential is a known source of trouble, linked to too long fluid change intervals or the wrong factory fluid, mostly on Japan built CR-Vs.

    Where to look
    The rear differential under the back of the car, and the fluid change records
    How to test
    Do slow, tight turns in a car park and listen and feel for groaning or juddering from the rear. Ask when the rear diff fluid was last changed.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost diff repair

    Sources: editorialsui.autotrader.ca (opens in a new tab)

  2. Air conditioning compressor

    The compressor can fail slowly and spread black sludge through the system, and the compressor relay is a common, cheap fault.

    Where to look
    The air conditioning compressor at the front of the engine
    How to test
    The air conditioning should blow ice cold almost at once. If not, suspect the compressor.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost compressor and system flush; a relay is cheap

    Sources: editorialsui.autotrader.ca (opens in a new tab)

  3. Oil use, sludge and ticking

    Some owners report oil use, and the engines need clean, correct grade oil. Ticking at idle or buzzing as revs rise is a reason to avoid the car.

    Where to look
    The dipstick and the underside of the oil filler cap
    How to test
    Check the oil level, look under the oil cap for sludge, and listen for ticking at idle.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost engine work

    Sources: carsales.com.au (opens in a new tab), editorialsui.autotrader.ca (opens in a new tab)

  4. Power steering whine

    A whine at low speed may be low fluid or a worn pump, and some dealers replaced power steering racks on 2007 to 2010 cars.

    Where to look
    The power steering pump and fluid reservoir
    How to test
    Turn lock to lock at low speed and listen for whine, and check the fluid level.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost fluid, a pump or a rack

    Sources: editorialsui.autotrader.ca (opens in a new tab)

  5. Underbody impact damage

    Underbody clearance is ordinary, so look for impact damage that can displace the radiator mounts, hoses and air conditioning pipes.

    Where to look
    Under the nose and rear, the radiator mountings, hoses and air conditioning pipes, and the spare wheel cradle
    How to test
    Look underneath for scuffs and dents, check the radiator area is straight and lower the spare wheel cradle to check it works.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost depends on what is damaged

    Sources: carsales.com.au (opens in a new tab)

  6. Heat shield rattle

    A light metallic rattle from underneath is typically a rusty or loose catalytic converter heat shield.

    Where to look
    The heat shield over the catalytic converter
    How to test
    Listen for a tinny rattle at idle and as the revs rise and fall.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Low cost a clamp or removal

    Sources: editorialsui.autotrader.ca (opens in a new tab)

  7. Door locks and cabin electrics

    Isolated problems with cabin electrics are reported, so test the locks and power seats.

    Where to look
    Every door lock, the tailgate and the power seats
    How to test
    Lock and unlock every door and the tailgate from the key and the switch, and run the power seats through their range.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Low cost lock actuators or switches

    Sources: carsales.com.au (opens in a new tab), editorialsui.autotrader.ca (opens in a new tab)

  8. Engine harness connector recall

    A Canadian recall covered a connector pin in the engine harness damaged in assembly, which could cut power to the coils and cause misfiring or stalling.

    Where to look
    The recall record for the VIN
    How to test
    Ask a Honda dealer whether the car is covered and the repair done, and feel for misfires on the drive.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Low cost recall work is free at a Honda dealer

    Sources: editorialsui.autotrader.ca (opens in a new tab)

General guidance from owner and specialist sources. Check the specific car with an independent inspection. Researched 4 November 2026.

What the cost bands mean
  • Low: a small job. Typically a few hundred dollars or less at an NZ workshop, often a DIY fix.
  • Medium: a proper workshop job. Typically several hundred to a couple of thousand dollars.
  • High: a major job. Typically several thousand dollars or more, enough to change what the car is worth.

Questions to ask the seller

  • Is it 2WD or AWD, and when was the rear diff fluid last changed?
  • Does the air conditioning blow ice cold?
  • Is there a record of regular oil changes with the right grade?
  • Has it been off road?

US recalls

Looking up US recall data.

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