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Buying guide

Ford Mustang Shelby GT500 S197 (2007 to 2014): buying guide, problems and NZ numbers

The Ford Mustang Shelby GT500 S197 was built from 2007 to 2014 as a coupe or convertible, with a manual gearbox, rear wheel drive and petrol power. Chassis code: S197. Redline has a curated guide to its 8 most reported weak points, from owner club and specialist sources.

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Key facts

Years
2007 to 2014
Chassis codes
S197
Body types
Coupe, Convertible
Gearboxes
Manual
Drive
RWD (rear wheel drive)
Fuel
Petrol

On NZ roads

Counting every one on the NZ register. The first look can take up to 15 seconds.

Known weak points

Curated by Redline from owner club and specialist sources Commonly reported by owners and specialists for the Ford Mustang S197 (2005 to 2014). Not every car has these; check this one.

  1. Two piece spark plugs

    Early V6 and 4.6 V8 engines use two piece plugs that can snap on removal without the special tool.

    Where to look
    The spark plugs under the coil packs
    How to test
    Ask whether the plugs have been changed and by whom. Original plugs on a low km car are a job to budget for.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost extraction labour if one snaps

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), motorbiscuit.com (opens in a new tab)

  2. Alternator diode (2005 to 2009)

    The alternator diode can fail, causing hesitation at low revs or no charging.

    Where to look
    The alternator and the battery warning light
    How to test
    Check the battery light goes out and feel for hesitation at low revs.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Low cost a new alternator

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), motorbiscuit.com (opens in a new tab)

  3. Water leaks and the junction box

    Failed door and body seals let water into the front footwells, where it can damage the passenger side control box and drain the battery.

    Where to look
    The front footwell carpets, especially on the passenger side
    How to test
    Feel under the carpets for damp and check every electric function.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost cheap seals, or a costly junction box

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), motorbiscuit.com (opens in a new tab)

  4. Bonnet rust and paint

    Rust forms on the double skinned leading edge of the bonnet, and the paint blisters.

    Where to look
    The front edge of the bonnet
    How to test
    Lift the bonnet and look along the leading edge underneath for bubbles.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost bonnet repair and paint

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), motorbiscuit.com (opens in a new tab)

  5. Manual gearbox synchros

    Second gear can crunch when cold from worn synchros. The MT82 6 speed in 2011 to 2014 cars has reports of gear clash, worn synchros and 3rd gear lock out.

    Where to look
    The gear lever
    How to test
    From cold, change into 2nd and listen for a crunch. On an MT82 car, try every gear at higher revs.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost gearbox repair

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), motorbiscuit.com (opens in a new tab)

  6. Rear axle pinion seal

    The rear axle pinion seal leaks. The part is cheap but the job takes a full day of labour.

    Where to look
    The front of the rear differential where the driveshaft joins
    How to test
    Look for oil on the diff nose and the driveshaft flange.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost a day of labour

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab), motorbiscuit.com (opens in a new tab)

  7. 4.0 V6 timing chain guides

    Timing chain guides and tensioners on the 4.0 V6 are known to break, giving a death rattle.

    Where to look
    The front of the V6 engine
    How to test
    Listen at the front of the engine on a cold start for rattling.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost timing chain job

    Sources: motorbiscuit.com (opens in a new tab)

  8. Rear lower control arm bushes

    The rear lower control arm bushes wear and give sloppy handling.

    Where to look
    The rear lower control arms under the car
    How to test
    Feel for the rear moving around over bumps and when getting on and off the throttle.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Low cost poly bushes or new arms

    Sources: pistonheads.com (opens in a new tab)

General guidance from owner and specialist sources. Check the specific car with an independent inspection. Researched 3 November 2026.

What the cost bands mean
  • Low: a small job. Typically a few hundred dollars or less at an NZ workshop, often a DIY fix.
  • Medium: a proper workshop job. Typically several hundred to a couple of thousand dollars.
  • High: a major job. Typically several thousand dollars or more, enough to change what the car is worth.

Service items

Questions to ask the seller

  • Is it a V6, a 4.6 GT or a 5.0 GT, and manual or auto?
  • Have the spark plugs been changed?
  • Have the carpets ever been wet?
  • Who converted it to right hand drive, and is there LVVTA certification?
  • Does the cruise control work?

New Zealand notes

  • Most NZ S197s are US cars converted to right hand drive. Ask for the LVVTA certification and check the lights and cruise control work, since UK guides note these get altered at compliance.

An S197 suits a buyer who wants an affordable V8 Mustang and will check the conversion paperwork and rust.

US recalls

Looking up US recall data.

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