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Buying guide

Ford Focus Mk3 (2010 to 2018): buying guide, problems and NZ numbers

The Ford Focus Mk3 was built from 2010 to 2018 as a hatchback, sedan or wagon, with a manual, automatic or dual clutch gearbox, front wheel drive or all wheel drive and petrol, diesel or electric power. Chassis code: Mk3. Redline has a curated guide to its 7 most reported weak points, from owner club and specialist sources.

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Key facts

Years
2010 to 2018
Chassis codes
Mk3
Body types
Hatchback, Sedan, Wagon
Gearboxes
Manual, Automatic, Dual clutch
Drive
FWD (front wheel drive), AWD (all wheel drive)
Fuel
Petrol, Diesel, Electric

On NZ roads

Counting every one on the NZ register. The first look can take up to 15 seconds.

Known weak points

Curated by Redline from owner club and specialist sources Commonly reported by owners and specialists for the Ford Focus Mk3 (2011 to 2018). Not every car has these; check this one.

  1. PowerShift dual clutch auto

    The PowerShift dual clutch automatic is troublesome and widely advised against, and its fluid and filter change matters for its life.

    Where to look
    The PowerShift automatic and its service records
    How to test
    Feel for judder pulling away, hesitation and clunky low speed shifts. Ask for proof of the fluid and filter changes and any clutch or control unit work.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost clutch packs or control unit

    Sources: parkers.co.uk (opens in a new tab), carsguide.com.au (opens in a new tab)

  2. Clutch and dual mass flywheel (manuals)

    A stiff change, a high biting point or a spongy pedal are warning signs, and a worn dual mass flywheel rattles when the engine is switched off.

    Where to look
    The clutch pedal and the flywheel between engine and gearbox
    How to test
    Check where the clutch bites and listen for a rattle as you switch the engine off.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    High cost clutch and flywheel together

    Sources: parkers.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  3. Front suspension bushes and coil springs

    Creaking over speed humps usually comes from dry bushes, and broken front coil springs clonk or twang when turning.

    Where to look
    The front lower arm bushes and front coil springs
    How to test
    Drive over speed humps and listen for creaks. With the car still, turn the wheel lock to lock several times and listen for a clonk or twang.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost bushes, or springs replaced as a pair

    Sources: parkers.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  4. Windscreen bonding

    Screen bonding may fail, mostly on cars with a recently replaced screen.

    Where to look
    The windscreen edges, and the front carpets
    How to test
    Listen for faint crunching from the screen when cornering briskly, and feel and smell for damp carpets.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost refitting the screen

    Sources: parkers.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  5. Alternator

    A failing alternator can be spotted with a simple load test.

    Where to look
    The alternator, tested through the interior light
    How to test
    With the engine idling and the interior light on, switch on the headlights or heated rear screen. A pulsing or flickering interior light points to the alternator.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Medium cost a new alternator

    Sources: parkers.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  6. Brakes and rear hum

    Juddering front discs and grumbling rear pads are often from cheap aftermarket parts, and a rear hum below about 110 km/h is often cheap tyres mistaken for a wheel bearing.

    Where to look
    The front discs, the rear pads and the rear tyres
    How to test
    Brake firmly from speed and feel for judder. Check the tyre brand and feel the inside edge of the rear tyres for lumps or edge wear.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Low cost discs, pads or tyres

    Sources: parkers.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

  7. 1.0 EcoBoost degas hose (2011 to 2013)

    On the 1.0 EcoBoost a small plastic coolant hose was the subject of a UK recall; if it splits at speed it can leak and destroy the engine.

    Where to look
    The degas hose on the coolant system, and the recall record
    How to test
    On a 1.0 EcoBoost, ask a Ford dealer to confirm the hose was modified.
    Cost if it needs fixing
    Low cost recall work, or an engine if it fails

    Sources: parkers.co.uk (opens in a new tab)

General guidance from owner and specialist sources. Check the specific car with an independent inspection. Researched 4 November 2026.

What the cost bands mean
  • Low: a small job. Typically a few hundred dollars or less at an NZ workshop, often a DIY fix.
  • Medium: a proper workshop job. Typically several hundred to a couple of thousand dollars.
  • High: a major job. Typically several thousand dollars or more, enough to change what the car is worth.

Service items

Questions to ask the seller

  • Is it manual or PowerShift auto, and has the PowerShift had any clutch or control unit work?
  • When was the PowerShift fluid and filter last changed?
  • Which engine is it?
  • Has the windscreen been replaced?

US recalls

Looking up US recall data.

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